[fred900]

Punched out the Catalytic Converter today. It was the hardest thing I ever did. If I had to do it again, or if you want my advice, Just take out the honeycomb part and not the metal ring. Bike feels like I got an aftermarket exhaust now. Not much louder but way more power. Got some holes in the fuel map, so I need the power commander now. Engine spins up much faster now, and feels more powerful. If your going to go with the slip-on exhaust your probably going to have to do it any way.
You have to take the header off to do it. Once off, just get some long punches or what ever you have to knock it out. First I just punched out the honeycomb but got greedy on weight and started cutting out the ring. Taking off the header and punching out the honeycomb took about 30 minutes. That dam ring took 5 hours. By the way there is only one Cat. I ran a wire through the header and it went straight through.

 

[Nicky310]

With the 954, they recommended moving the radiator out of the way to remove the headers. I left it in place, which made it tight getting the wrench on the headers. Took longer, but doable.

How much room is there on the 1000RR to get the header off? Did it require removal of anything besides the plastics (like the radiator)? Is removing the header nuts the most difficult part (once you figure out how to get the plastics off for the first time)?

 

[fred900]

I just disconnected the bottom bracket and there was enough room to get the header off. That's the easiest part.

 

[Joker45]

Hey fred, You should have ran a dyno on the before and after difference.

 

[fred900]

I should have, but I got the Idea from another forum about the guy that races a R1 in AMA superbike and all that he did was punch out the cat, race tires etc... But my seat of pants dyno says much better, maybe 4.824598674533 more horse power, I'm usually not off by much. Ha! But seriously, it does feel faster and I just got back from riding it in the tight twisties and it comes on a lot better down low.

 

[JAB3]

:lol:
Fred you might want to get your a$$ re-calibrated!!
The hp gain is obviously 4.9345762513

 

[Joker45]

I need to hire your butt then so I can get a baseline.

 

[IronNutz]

Anyone else think the ASPCA might have an issue with the title of this thread?

 

[JAB3]

:lol:

 

[klrb929]

yea this thread is tottaly false advertising

i thought some pussy abuse was going on in here

 

[Joker45]

LMAO. :lol: That's what I was thinking happened. Thought his cat ripped up his seat.

 

[SkinDragger]

:lol:

 

[Scratchy]

Srrry just jumped into the thread and are we talking about pussy or cats! :lol:
Because punching a hole is pretty easy. lol :wink:
Sometimes it can be hard to get to but usually a nice dinner does the trick.

 

[Sub]

these days it doesn't even take dinner.

 

[SkinDragger]

ok, back on topic

Are you saying that only 1 of the cats is real? Which side?

 

[fred900]

I had the whole pipe off, and the section where it goes into 1 where it starts turning up... behind the rear set... That's the cat. It's the oblong section of the pipe. If you just open up that joint you'll see it and how restrictive it is. After I got it out I took a wire and ran it down the rest of the header to the top and it went straight through. So there is one cat. I think with the 4.4 hp you get from the slip on's and doing this, will give you the full 10 hp from buying a full system.
So how much are you guys going to make fun of me for this post. It's all good.

 

[SkinDragger]

:scratch: Thats strange. I see yer in Califonia so maybe in fact the 2 bikes ARE different. Do me a favor, and look under yer rear seat, and tell me what the model number is, more specifically, see if there is a "C" or a "K" near the end of it.

On mine (in Virginia) the header comes down as 4 pipes, joins into 2 pipes. In this 2 pipe section, there are 2 (one in each pipe) odd shaped sections approx. 6-8" long. Looks very much like there are honeycomb catalysts inside, then back into 2 normal pipes, then joins into 1.

I'll see if I can take a quick picture and post up of what I'm talking about. See if you can do the same. Thanks. I'm truly intrigued now.

 

[fred900]

I thought that too, about that 2 pipe section, that they were cat's also. That's why I ran the wire, and it went through. If it was the honeycomb there is no way the wire would go through, believe me, I've seen the honey comb and it looks like a radiator. I'm at work right now but I will take a break now and go check out that model #. If you have time drop the header, it's very easy, drop the bottom cowl, take off the header bolts (8), the bolt in between those to pipes you though were cats and the pipe clamp behind the rearset. You have to take off the rearset, the plastic cover, the small heat shield and that's it. it only took me 15 minutes to get that all off. Be back in an hour.

 

[SkinDragger]

Ok, kewl thanks.

Here are some pics.

The label under the seat with model number and paint code:

Certification label, attached to rear of trunk behind seat latch. It sez:
"Vehicle Emission Control Information - Honda Motor Co. Ltd."
"Engine Family Identification - 4HNXC01.0AEC"
"Excess Garbage about tuneup specs"
"Fuel Gasoline 95 RON min. see OWNERS MANUAL for gasoline containing alchohol"
"oil specs and plug gap specs"
"This vehicle conforms to U.S.EPA regulations applicable to 2004 model year new motorcycles"

Going front to back:

Going back to front:

Section of pipe between EXUP valve and muffler it's self (looks like there might be something in there based upon the single weld about 3/4 of the way up)

The EXUP valve it's self:

Couldn't get a picture of the pipe leading between the 2 into 1 joint and the exup valve, but it doesn't seem like there is anything there.

 

[SkinDragger]

Oh yeah, also the frame sticker (which is longer on the frame but rather under the tail section between the front and rear seat) reads at the bottom of the label:

"This vehicle conforms to all applicable FEDERAL motor vehicle safety standards in effect on the date of manufacture shown above"

This this is talking about SAFETY and not EMISSIONS, but noted the word FEDERAL there anyhow. Won't hurt to compare and see if that is any different. This "frame" sticker is located originally on the left spar between the tank cover and the mid fairing.