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2008 cbr1000rr
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently replaced my fork seals and they are no longer leaking. However, I did NOT replace the copper sealing washers at the bottom of the fork leg (attached to the allen bolt that holds the damper assembly) and the one side is leaking.

My question: can I replace the copper washers with the forks upside down so I don't lose oil?

I'm afraid since the fork will be upside down, the damper rod will fall away from the bottom of the fork because the bolt isn't there to hold it.

But then again wouldn't the spring hold the damper to the bottom of the fork?

Also, would the damper spin and not allow the bolt to tighten? Or would the spring keep enough pressure on it that it won't spin?

When I replaced the fork seals, one washer was loose but the other was stuck to the underside of the bolt head. So maybe I won't be able to separate the washer from the bolt?

And if I'm remembering correctly, the bolts were difficult to get the threads started, or maybe the damper was spinning and I didn't realize it?

Many things to consider. I'm afraid to take this on if it's going to end up being a nightmare. If anyone has done this or has any insight, please let me know!!
 

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Before you tear it all down or swap washers out, did you actually torque it to 25 ft-lb? I ask because the hex bolt is very shallow, and is difficult to torque to the service specification.

It can occur that the damper spins and not allow the bolt to tighten. Honda has a special tool for this reason. Same for Ohlins cartridges that have a long castellated shaft to hold the inner damper in place as the bottom bolt is tightened. Since the spring is pressing down, it should not want to rotate.

I've had copper washers stick to bolts (banjo bolts, bolt you mentioned) and the solution is to use a PVC cutter to gently wedge between the washer and bolt head.

I would start with a re-torque of the bolt and give it another try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I torqued both to 25 ft lbs using a torque wrench when I was changing the seals. Then after the forks were back on the bike and I saw the one was leaking I pulled the axle and re-torqued it to 35 ft lbs (just that one). It's not leaking as bad after the re-torque, but still leaking a little. I can't see torqueing it any more than that. I would think it's going to snap if I do.

I'll probably order the washers AND bolts. I figured it'd be easier than trying to fight the washers off the old bolts. Expensive though- about $40 for both bolts & washers, oem honda.
 

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A1 SuperMod!
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I torqued both to 25 ft lbs using a torque wrench when I was changing the seals. Then after the forks were back on the bike and I saw the one was leaking I pulled the axle and re-torqued it to 35 ft lbs (just that one). It's not leaking as bad after the re-torque, but still leaking a little. I can't see torqueing it any more than that. I would think it's going to snap if I do.

I'll probably order the washers AND bolts. I figured it'd be easier than trying to fight the washers off the old bolts. Expensive though- about $40 for both bolts & washers, oem honda.
Inspect the mating surfaces of the bolts and lower fork leg. If there's any scuffs or surface imperfections that will prevent a proper seal. Solution is a light coat of anaerobic sealant.
 
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