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Assuming you are still running the stock sprocket and tire sizes, then the solution is to change your shift habit to meet the criteria for QS to work properly.

You can also try to alter the QS effort level (1,2 or 3) via the dash menus.

The - in the dash display means the QS feature has been momentary disabled because the criteria to permit QS function have not been met at that moment.

Understand the QS function is meant for full throttle up-shifts and the Autoblipper is intended for high hard braking clutchless down shifts.

The QS/Autoblipper features are really not intended for casual street use. You can read similar instructions outlined in the owners manual.
thanks for the reply.
everything is 100% factory.
However per the manual, I'm using it as intended. This is copy/pasted from the manual, page 110:
"This system functions when the engine speed is more than 1,500 r/min (rpm) on upshifting or more than idle speed on downshifting"

It does not specify grip angle for throttle or hard braking- although I do understand the nature of the programming may have that intent. And by the way- some of these higher gear shifts are during WOT, close to redline... it's very disconcerting when it doesn't find the gear quickly.

Just sort of a bummer that this issue seems to be inconsistent. There are videos of other riders with the same setup banging up and down gears flawlessly, with far less throttle and mild deceleration.
 

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. . . The QS/Autoblipper features are really not intended for casual street use. You can read similar instructions outlined in the owners manual.
I had found exactly that with my 2018 SP2. Although not a consistently 'hard' rider, I have found that both up and functions work better, i.e. smoother and positive shift, with the revs over the 6,000 mark. I think logic might suggest that the word 'quick' shifter implies just that: that it offers optimum performance under optimum conditions - and that would be rapid riding.
 

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What I find out is the even slightest chain slack (chain loose) affects the QS. I had a couple “-“ at the track. I did have have a slightly loose chain. Not by my calculations and Honda’s, BTW. It was set at 30mm precisely. But it feels loose at that, compared to the feel when adjusting my other bikes.

I just upped the rear tire to 190/55 and rode it yesterday, after adjusting chain by eye. And it shifts better, with no QS issues, than a stock tire size and a “loose” chain.
 

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What I find out is the even slightest chain slack (chain loose) affects the QS. I had a couple “-“ at the track. I did have have a slightly loose chain. Not by my calculations and Honda’s, BTW. It was set at 30mm precisely. But it feels loose at that, compared to the feel when adjusting my other bikes.

I just upped the rear tire to 190/55 and rode it yesterday, after adjusting chain by eye. And it shifts better, with no QS issues, than a stock tire size and a “loose” chain.
Interesting. I will try this. My slack is at 33mm. Which is inside Honda's parameters of 25-35mm but maybe it's a factor since it's on the loose side.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Chain slack may contribute a difference of the speed that is measured by the speed sensor on the gear box at the counter shaft vs the expected speed for current conditions.

This expected speed is critical to the calculation Honda does to determine the ideal shift point which is when they cut power - if they cut power at the wrong moment then the shift action wont work.

Or if they feel the speed at the counter-shaft is out of the expected envelope the system is momentarily disabled and the dreaded - will show up.

Since the street ECU has no mechanism to calibrate rear tire diameter or sprocket sizes which are critical to QS / Autoblipper functionality you see similar QS/Autoblipper failure if you radically change rear tire size/sprockets.

The use of a constant that cannot be changed on the street ECU is probably the single dumbest engineering blunder ever committed since the discovery of the wheel.
What makes things worse is that this wasn't an actual blunder, but rather a conscious decision by Honda - in their arrogance they don't want anyone to change tires or sprockets - and it seems not have an out of spec chain either LOL
 

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Hah - yeah if indeed this is the case, pretty weak stuff from one of the foremost motor companies in human history. But stranger things have happened.

When it works well, it's pure bliss. But when you're powering out of a fast sweeper and it lurches instead of the nanosecond shift you're expecting... scary stuff.

Going to try a few things this week: tighten chain slack to 25mm and then reinitialize the QS as soon as my SCS connector arrives from Amazon.

Will report back, and will also try to get some GoPro footage. Knowing my luck it will probably start behaving once it knows it's on camera lol
 

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I want to add that riding a 2018 ZX10R SE ($22K bike) for 2.5 weeks, the included OEM QS did do the “slight hesitation” thingy too. Not scary or anything, but it was there. I remember it made me think how awesome my OEM QS on my lowly 13 Street Triple is, LOL. Upshifts only, but by far the best and smoothest QS I have experienced - another reason to love Triumph. :pThe CBR OEM is better than the KAWA. At least for me. Yes, sometimes the delay is there, but in high RPMs, it is spot on. And after tightening the chain yesterday, even with a 55 rear, it is great.
 

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I want to add that riding a 2018 ZX10R SE ($22K bike) for 2.5 weeks, the included OEM QS did do the “slight hesitation” thingy too. Not scary or anything, but it was there. i remember it made me think how awesome my OEM QS on my lowly 13 Street Triple is, LOL. Upshifts only, but by far the best and smoother QS I have experienced - another reason to love Triumph. :pThe CBR OEM is better than the KAWA. At least for me. Yes, sometimes the delay is there, but in high RPMs, it is spot on. And after tightening the chain yesterday, even with a 55 rear, it is great.
Good to know for comparison.
I have a 2013 Daytona 675R with the OEM QS. I can corroborate, it is utterly amazing. The lack of downshift operation is a crime against humanity because that masterpiece of an engine is just begging for it. But oh well.

But back to the Honda - it's such a good bike. Flicks around like the Daytona which is impressive by itself and has substantially more top end power. I think that's why this QS thing has my feathers ruffled - it's basically the only flaw.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Good to know for comparison.
I have a 2013 Daytona 675R with the OEM QS. I can corroborate, it is utterly amazing. The lack of downshift operation is a crime against humanity because that masterpiece of an engine is just begging for it. But oh well.

But back to the Honda - it's such a good bike. Flicks around like the Daytona which is impressive by itself and has substantially more top end power. I think that's why this QS thing has my feathers ruffled - it's basically the only flaw.
You have no idea how correct you are.

If you ever wonder why I may appear so bitter towards Honda with regard to the SC77 SP2, it is because we knew going in that the base and SP SC77 did not have the Sport Kit Calibration Menus open and unlocked like the HRC Kit provided for - but we were told by various Honda reps that this was to be the real secret as to why the SP2 was originally only intended for sale to race teams etc.

The SP2 was going to have the calibration menu of the Sport Kit unlocked so that gearing and tire changes could be easily done without crippling the QS/Autoblipper system.

We of course found out by the time the bikes were delivered that this was a a lie. LOL
 

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I just upped the rear tire to 190/55 and rode it yesterday, after adjusting chain by eye.
Any error codes on the display ?
I also have the sc77 abs and want to try a 55 but heard it may give you an error code.
Mine is completely stock.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Any error codes on the display ?
I also have the sc77 abs and want to try a 55 but heard it may give you an error code.
Mine is completely stock.
The system doesn't work this way.
The bike has no calibration capability so it cant post a DTC error code because the bike has no idea you have changed anything.

The way the system is designed, the only way you will know there is an issue will be when you go to shift up or down and the ECU determines the current gear/next gear/counter shaft speed/rpm/wheel speed do not fall within the operational window for an Autoblipper downshift or a Quickshift upshift and you will see a - (Dash) displayed instead of the gear selected.

Your riding style may suit the tire and you might never see the above scenario -- then again you may be Marquez fast and are always fighting the shifter :)
 

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The system doesn't work this way.
The bike has no calibration capability so it cant post a DTC error code because the bike has no idea you have changed anything.

The way the system is designed, the only way you will know there is an issue will be when you go to shift up or down and the ECU determines the current gear/next gear/counter shaft speed/rpm/wheel speed do not fall within the operational window for an Autoblipper downshift or a Quickshift upshift and you will see a - (Dash) displayed instead of the gear selected.

Your riding style may suit the tire and you might never see the above scenario -- then again you may be Marquez fast and are always fighting the shifter :)
Thanks sir! That makes sense. I don't have the QS yet but Evangelos does and seems to not have too many QS issues. Hoping when I order my QS with the 55 tire, it will be similar.
 

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I will restate, that as per my findings, which could be wrong, LOL, I have found out chain tension is a HUGE factor (track pace).

So, with STOCK TIRE SIZE on 3 track days and chain set to 30MM about: I had SEVERAL "-" errors on the upshift.

One track day with 55 rear and chain set to 25mm about: Awesome, EXCEPT ONE lap that I got in N downshifting this time, from 3rd.

To me this tells me chain slack is huge. I can attribute the N to my shifting, but the "-" error is an ECU communicaton issue.

And mathematically thinking. Setting slack in the higher range gives the error, even with stock size. Whereas, a tighter chain despite a 55 size gives no errors, and the N miss-shift is on the downshift now. So, I will try 26-27mm next time.

Street riding at 25mm and 55 rear is perfection, as is track overall (besides 2 Neutrals.)
 

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Thanks sir! That makes sense. I don't have the QS yet but Evangelos does and seems to not have too many QS issues. Hoping when I order my QS with the 55 tire, it will be similar.
I will restate, that as per my findings, which could be wrong, LOL, I have found out chain tension is a HUGE factor (track pace).

So, with STOCK TIRE SIZE on 3 track days and chain set to 30MM about: I had SEVERAL "-" errors on the upshift.

One track day with 55 rear and chain set to 25mm about: Awesome, EXCEPT ONE lap that I got in N downshifting this time, from 3rd.

To me this tells me chain slack is huge. I can attribute the N to my shifting, but the "-" error is an ECU communicaton issue.

And mathematically thinking. Setting slack in the higher range gives the error, even with stock size. Whereas, a tighter chain despite a 55 size gives no errors, and the N miss-shift is on the downshift now. So, I will try 26-27mm next time.

Street riding at 25mm and 55 rear is perfection, as is track overall (besides 2 Neutrals.)
The - is the bike telling the rider that the Autoblipper or Quickshift feature is disabled for that shift.
The reason it posts this message is because at the current moment the conditions to allow the shift are not being met, not because of an ECU comms issue.
 

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The - is the bike telling the rider that the Autoblipper or Quickshift feature is disabled for that shift.
The reason it posts this message is because at the current moment the conditions to allow the shift are not being met, not because of an ECU comms issue.
Yes, miss worded on my part. BTW, another 17 CBR owner at the track told me she had the errors
sometimes with the stock QS and stock tire size, and an aftermarket QS resolved the issues.
 

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Yes, miss worded on my part. BTW, another 17 CBR owner at the track told me she had the errors
sometimes with the stock QS and stock tire size, and an aftermarket QS resolved the issues.
What rear sets was she running?

By resolved does she mean disabled stock QS and is using Woolich Race Tools and Woolich Quickshifter hardware or she left the Honda QS/Autoblipper feature enabled and installed an HM Quickshifter loadcell unit?

Having spoken to a number folks who went the ‘Swap QS Hardware’ route, the act of removing the OEM Quickshifter hardware and replacing with HM and then adjusting the QS throw and linkage correctly helped tremendously.

Later going back to OEM QS hardware and correctly adjusting for the rearsets had everything working again.

For other track riders just changing to a different vendors rearsets that has adjustability within the Honda operating envelope was enough.
Just pointing out that setup impacts all equipment and sometimes it’s not the removal alone that’s solution, it was the correct setup of the replacement that mattered :)

Anyway, my point about replacement QS hardware is that it often comes with timing adjustablity that the OEM is missing and this can makeup for Honda’s stupid refusal to include a calibration interface for tires and gearing changes.
 

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What rear sets was she running?

By resolved does she mean disabled stock QS and is using Woolich Race Tools and Woolich Quickshifter hardware or she left the Honda QS/Autoblipper feature enabled and installed an HM Quickshifter loadcell unit?

Having spoken to a number folks who went the ‘Swap QS Hardware’ route, the act of removing the OEM Quickshifter hardware and replacing with HM and then adjusting the QS throw and linkage correctly helped tremendously.

Later going back to OEM QS hardware and correctly adjusting for the rearsets had everything working again.

For other track riders just changing to a different vendors rearsets that has adjustability within the Honda operating envelope was enough.
Just pointing out that setup impacts all equipment and sometimes it’s not the removal alone that’s solution, it was the correct setup of the replacement that mattered :)

Anyway, my point about replacement QS hardware is that it often comes with timing adjustablity that the OEM is missing and this can makeup for Honda’s stupid refusal to include a calibration interface for tires and gearing changes.
She is stock completely otherwise, even stock exhaust. She told me the brand but I don’t remember. One of the well known ones. Her husband is a control rider and races, so the bike is setup properly.
BTW... I’m looking for rear sets, all I need is really to move back the pegs a little. Height is good since I ride the bike on the streets regularly. Have not been able to find any set with an option at the same time to not raise the pegs. Plus, with all this finicky stuff... SATO racing is a well known company, any experience or input with their CBR rear-sets? They state compatible with the OEM QS. However, the SP ones need to be used if you have a QS and they are very aggressive...
 

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Cannot speak to a Sato setup with stock QS, but TSR street version does work well with stock QS and looks almost OEM but carries the TSR tax.

Bonamici work well with the stock QS. That is what is on my R&D SP2. Currently setup for GP shift, with OEM QS and the only times I get QS issues is when I am trying to force an Autoblip down shifts at impractically low rpms and speeds.

I am not in love with the black finish, would be better if they were silver but they work well.
 
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