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The - is the bike telling the rider that the Autoblipper or Quickshift feature is disabled for that shift.
The reason it posts this message is because at the current moment the conditions to allow the shift are not being met, not because of an ECU comms issue.
Man! you guys have just saved me a massive head ache. I have been racing my 2017 ABS model for almost 3 years now. Since day one i have been running a 200/60/17 rear. Experienced all of the flaws with the QS on the down shift. Enough to learn not to use it when your hard on the brakes approaching that tight corner whilst down shifting at 240kmh. Only for that dreaded (-) dash line to appear. Its not much fun running off track and approaching that tyre wall thinking thats it game over.

Anyways! I i don't run TC as it messes with my starts also bogs the bike down at lower speeds driving out of the corners. Possibly the reason for my high side last year which destroyed the bike but it was lap 1 a bit cold and i was too eager to get on that throttle a bit early, which to be fair was more like the reason.

Last time out i experience the dash - line on my gear indicator but also followed by the gear number also flashing at the same time. So every gear i selected was met with a flashing line and a flashing gear number continuously. However the QS was still operational shifting up and down. This issue has been driving me nuts trying to diagnose the fault thinking it was a faulty QS. If i reset the ECU it would clear the fault and then start flashing again at around 60kmh. I had gone through every test you can do on this bike. Waiting for the service manual is taking forever. Ive spent weeks and weeks trying to understand the logic behind it until i read these posts about the chain slack can influence the conditions in which the QS must operate with in.

So i just adjusted the slack in my chain to around 25mm from 30mm and tested the bike for quite a while and would you believe it actually looks like it fixed my problem. That with the 200/60/17 rear. I wanted to fix the issue whilst that tyre was on the bike as i never experienced it before until now. Time will tell but so so grateful for all this vital info and forums. You guys are awesome.

You can check out my blade out at @andypicart on intsagram .... Love it ! Even with its flaws. Old school clutching on the downshift is not so bad.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Glad you got it sorted.

The HRC Kit QS is just as sensitive to chain tension.
 

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Glad you got it sorted.

The HRC Kit QS is just as sensitive to chain tension.
Thanks and thats definatly one to remember.

I must say your bikes are insane. Wish i had the time and money to invest into mine. I will be following with interest.

Who the hell is riding those things at warp speed on those roads. Reminds me when i was in my early 20's out for a blast with me mates. You get home in one piece sit down and think to yourself was i really going that fast, and how TF did i survive lol.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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So using a 200 60. the oem quickshifter still works?
All depends how long the piece of string is.

What rear sets are you running?
What sprockets are you running?

What size are you currently running and what behavior have you validated with your current current setup?
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Are you currently getting the expected and predictable behavior from QS now when pushing the bike hard on stock sized tires?

I know it may seem like a facetious question but over the last 3 years I have fielded a lot of questions from folks that intend to only start really pushing their SC77s AFTER they change the chassis and do not a frame of reference against which to measure the success or failure of the Torque Management and QS systems.

The change to a larger rear tire will probably impact the Autoblipper downshift assist more than the QS up-shift.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Hey my 2017 cbr1000rr abs with QS started doing the same after installing a Speedodrd (sipped healer). Any ideas how to fix. Chain is fine.
Remove the speedo healer. It wont work with the system.

Did they sell it suggesting it would make the bike work with the 200 series tire?
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Did say anything about 200. It still works just flashing. Hoping it doesn’t hurt anything
If the shift display flashed - then no, your Quickshift is not working.

That flashing symbol is how the system indicates that QS did not work on that shift.
 

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I thought the same but on display it said it was on and when I down shifted it seemed to work. Waiting to hear back from 12oclocklabs to see if they can do anything.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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I thought the same but on display it said it was on and when I down shifted it seemed to work. Waiting to hear back from 12oclocklabs to see if they can do anything.
No you misunderstand me. And its not going to matter what 12oclocklabs say.

The - dash line flashing means at that moment in time when you try shift the QS\Autoblipper system is disabled and will not work.

If you keep going and your speed changes as you mash frantically on the gear pedal and it then eventually down shifts it STILL means that at the time the - is flashing the QS system is disabled because the speedo healer is interfering with the speed sensor signal that is matched and back calculated to the actual measured wheel speed, current actual engine rpm and the actual speed of the counter shaft.

Between your 200 tire and the speedo healer your system is not going to work.

I bet you that if you try either 13,500rpm 4-5-6 upshifts or 12500rpm 6-5-4 down shifts the QS and Autoblipper are not going to work properly.
 

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Well that blows lol. So no way to fix my speedometer now that I’ve changed the gearing. I hate to think my mileage is going to go up faster then it should. If I disable the speedodrd you have any other ways I can correct the speed? That is with out going back to factory gearing. Also I’m still running a 190 on the back
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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You sure about that?
Did you verify your displayed revs in gear to indicated speed?
 

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? Sorry you lost me. The speedometer was reading 8km/h faster (don’t know what that is in mph) so figured mileage on bike also going up faster.
 

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Vender - The SC77 Specialist
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Get a gopro point at the dash. Set the detail display in the lower right to show RPM.
Then go ride through the gears and so we can see rpm, gears and speed.

Send me the video via drop box or similar.

Let me know your gearing, I'll calculate what rpm and speed you should be seeing to determine if you are actually off and by how much. With -1 tooth in front we have run the bike the red line in 6th and speed displayed along with rpm was correct to calculate expected speed/rpm for the gearing
 

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Has there been any new information / solutions for this issue?

I have a 2017 1000RR and then had the factory QS installed by the dealer. I'm getting the exact same issues as a few other people on this thread.
Sometimes the upshifts are extremely crisp. Then every once in a while when going 3-4 or 4-5 there will be a mild delay where it seems like the bike is looking for the gear, reduces power, then finds the gear. This is during normal acceleration, and my foot action is smooth and crisp. No backing off throttle either, and no pressure on clutch lever whatsoever. Sometimes the gauge cluster even shows a "-" while it searches for a gear in the gear position indicator.

I also had an occurrence where I was going 1-2 and instead of hitting second, it went into N and then back into 1 all in a moment. The throttle was open and the shift was quick and firm, so I don't think a lazy shift was the culprit. Not expecting that reversal of motion, it almost sent me over the handlebars!

This is all happening above 4k rpm and during brisk acceleration so it really doesn't feel right.
Did you ever find a solution to this? Please share
 
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