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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys and gals, I am listing all info I have about the Ohlins suspension to help with setup and general info.
The Ohlins fork has a new name, NPX, for existing technology. Basically the rebound side of the fork is a NIX30 and compression side is FKR.
NIX30 has been around for some time and works pretty well. This technology is similar to Showa's Separate Function Fork in that rebound is on one side and compression the other. This saves some money as the damping pistons are singular in purpose, the valving shims are cut in half and the rider/tuner only has to adjust one "clicker" or make valving changes on a single fork. The surface area of the piston was also made larger, 30 mm, versus the older 25 mm fork. Consequently many racers actually preferred the older 25 mm forks BEFORE NIX30 because they felt the 25 mm fork had more feel and better bottoming resistance. NIX30 is on pretty much every OEM bike that comes with Ohlins forks for the past several years. As a racer you want more bottoming resistance on the compression side of the stroke so Ohlins has developed a spring pressurized fork insert called FKR. This insert is the top level of what Ohlins offers to the public. Last year Ducati offered this FKR technology on the compression side of their OEM fork on the V4R. Yamaha followed suit with their R1M and now Honda with the RR-R SP. Most fast riders don't complain about a lack of control on the rebound circuit so combining these two technologies is a more cost-effective best of both world scenario.

Now that you have a back story on the feature set here is some real info.

As delivered the Ohlins fork, FL941, has 2 mm of preload installed. 1 turn equals 1 mm. Also there is a tool available that has a Delrin insert so preload can be adjusted without scraching. I will post a pic of that tool in this space later.

Stock oil level is 180 mm air gap from top of oil to top of fork tube with the cap, spring and spring spacer removed and the fork collapsed.

Fork travel 125 mm - this is becoming the new standard as Ducati's V4R and Aprilia's Factory 1100 are both delivered with the same fork travel

Fork bottom 42 mm up from cast portion

Spring rate is 10.0N/m - same as V4R and Factory 1100 - both bikes have wings. With FKR technology a racer will typically run a single rate lighter vs. NIX30 - that means on a NIX30 fork a rider would run 10.5 N/m versus FRK at 10.0 N/m.

I will detail shock when I get the spec card back from Ohlins.
 

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2020 RRR SP HRC
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@Rosgregy when the pace picks up the automatic mode doesn't offer the consistency I needed so I changed to M1 FR Comp 65, FR Reb 50, RR Comp 85 and RR Reb 70 and set rider sag to 42 mm front and rear 30 mm
Thank you very much for the infos thats what i felt also from the automatic settings..
If you dont mind may i ask your weight bro? I weigh 93kls and 5'8 in height only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@Rosgregy I am 200 lbs with gear and 5'11" but those settings for reb/comp are really for damping control. I did have to adjust the preload front and rear for my weight, esp the rear as the installed preload as delivered from the dealer was not enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@D4rkside which 200/60 rear tire? The diameter of the older Pirelli 200/60 slick is 662 mm, oem is 656 mm, but the Dunlop KR451 200/60 is 671 mm and the Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP V3 200/60 DOT is 672 mm so it really matters which 200/60 you are talking about. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@D4rkside that Pirelli is the same as used on the Ducati Streetfighter V4, which is the same diameter as the oem Diablo Supercorsa SP V3 200/60. That tire is quite tall, in fact the tallest oem rear tire ever at 672 mm. The front Rosso Corsa 2 is the same diameter, 604 mm, as the oem Diablo Supercorsa SP V3 120/70-17, so when you install the Rosso Corsa II set of 120/70-17 and 200/60-17 you are effectively raising the rear 8 mm, as compared to the bike as delivered, which is a huge amount.

There are two things you can do.

You can either shorten the shock 4 mm OR you can raise the front end by 8 mm. Changing the rear is more difficult and will change the swingarm angle so I recommend raising the front, there is PLENTY of fork above the top clamp to play with. I have not tested these tires on this bike with the change I recommended so you may have to fine tune the 8 mm change by going to 6 or 7 mm; I also recommend measuring before and after to make sure you approach the change(s) in a way in which you know exactly where you were and where you are going followed by so riding to confirm.

Also keep in mind, what may feel good on the street usually requires further refinement on track but this should get you going in the right direction.

Please update this space to let us know what you experience.
 

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I think i will start with +5mm , from what i know the excatly diameter is 662 when loaded , stock is 654.

I had rider sag front 33mm with Driver(190lbs with Gear) and back 25mm , without Driver i have front 16mm and back 21mm with OEM tire Bridgestone rs11 200/55 but now installed Pirelli Rosso Corsa 2 200/60. Preload front 2 turn and back 7 turn still OEM setup (from open)
 

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so i did measure today , with 200/60 there is no different in rider sag compared to a 200/55 , still 33mm front (2 Turn preload) and 25mm back (7 Turn preload) , then i tried back 0 Turn preload and i got to 28mm , so i still wouldnt reach 42mm at the front even if i try 0 Turn preload insteed of 2 Turn preload and 7 turn preload at back of course.

now imagine i set the front +5-8mm higher since the 200/60 rear tire make its 8mm higher at the rear , i will never get to 42mm rider sag at the front without modified fork it seems.....
 
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