[J D]

Would you mind sharing the cost breakdown? For a $28000 bike that means $22k in upgrades?

I’m sure he will answer, but you have to figure, the HRC ecu, wheels, suspension could be near $20k?

 

[roadracerx]

@09_Blade I would have to go through all my receipts but at a high-level I have about 9k in HRC parts, data cable and BSD switches, another $1500 in Spider components (levers, remote adjuster, gas cap, brake guard and rearsets), another 4k in OZ wheels, Brembo rotors, slicks and brake lines, another 3.3k in race bodywork and another $500 in bolts and miscellaneous clips, fluids, etc., plus about 5k for 2 shocks and complete fork and I did all the work - imagine the cost of that....took about 30 hours but it will be well sorted and a total ripper

 

[J D]

Do you generally keep all the stock stuff, or do you just offload it?

 

[roadracerx]

I generally get rid of the stock stuff when I find time....it is a MAJOR effort to put the bike back to stock.

 

[HP17]

Also a major effort to sell all those stock parts!

 

[roadracerx]

@HP17 I do ok

 

[HP17]

Hey what bikes are you bringing to Buttonwillow?

 

[roadracerx]

@HP17 the CBR in race trim if I get the forks in time....Ohlins is MAJORLY backed-up rn, we are waiting on the damping rods - they sent ones that are too short. Otherwise I may bring the V4R, you?

 

[HP17]

If the weather is nice I'm taking my SC77. If it looks like rain I'll take my Supermoto. Last time I took both but it threw me off going back and forth. They ride so differently and right now I need to focus on the basics.

 

[roadracerx]

So I FINALLY got the new forks and fit the front brake line with the bottom clamp closeout...

So we extended these forks from 125 to 130 mm and fit Pirelli slicks in size 120/70 and 200/60. The front is the the same diameter as the OEM tire but the rear is 3 mm taller in ride height so I have set the forks at 11 mm of tube above the top clamp versus stock at 10 mm. The rear shock linkage ratio is 2.37:1 but I didn't want to shorten the shock to maintain stock geometry so this fork ride height will be my starting point which is 3 mm more than stock after all the measurements were taken.

Some trimming and tricks to get the brake line fitting just right without rubbing

 

[roadracerx]

Ok, so the bike has been done for a couple of days but I am waiting on a bracket for the left side fairing - took a couple of pics anyway Test day coming up in about a week!

Note the carbon inner wing...

And carbon lower clamp closeout

Everything is neat, tidy and no rubbing....now time to test and break some PRs!

 

[HP17]

It's beautiful

 

[09_Blade]

Very cool how you mounted the brake lines. Is that something you bought or improvised with zip ties and what looks like green tubing??

 

[roadracerx]

@09_Blade this is common way of mounting brake lines from Supersport to MotoGP. You simply use some durable tubing. In this case I used some Honda Tygon tubing but you can use a rubber hose. You simply take a long zip tie, 11-14" is what I use, and wrap it around the brake line to keep it from rubbing or moving around and getting caught on something.

This is a pic from GYTR Yamaha for a custom track-only R1 they offered for sale in Europe only for about 50K.

 

[roadracerx]

The completed bike for your viewing pleasure!

 

[HP17]

I know the forks are only extended 5mm but for some reason to my eye they look really long! You could take that thing off some sweet jumps

 

[09_Blade]

What do all 10 switches do?? Usually only see people run one of those switch housings on one side only.

 

[roadracerx]

@HP17 no outer dust seals make them look longer for sure!

@09_Blade

 

[HP17]

I didn't notice that before. I'm assuming you ditch it in an effort to minimize stiction?

 

[roadracerx]

@HP17 correct and sometimes for additional travel but not in this case. There is plenty of unused tube on this fork. More brake dust will make it past the inner seal and require more frequent servicing without the outer dust seals.