scarred cylinder

The new bolts will stretch at first. You can use the old or new bolts for measurements. I'd use the new bolts for final assembly. Put some Lucas assembly lube or something similar on the threads. Repeated torqueing of aluminum case threads is bad. Keep them lubed up to prevent tearing them up. Studs are the way to go if you want to spend some more money.

I'll try to remember to take a picture of the torque procedure in the book but you should find a factory service manual if you haven't already.

Buy this

TurboDave said:

The new bolts will stretch at first. You can use the old or new bolts for measurements. I'd use the new bolts for final assembly. Put some Lucas assembly lube or something similar on the threads. Repeated torqueing of aluminum case threads is bad. Keep them lubed up to prevent tearing them up. Studs are the way to go if you want to spend some more money.

I'll try to remember to take a picture of the torque procedure in the book but you should find a factory service manual if you haven't already.

Buy this

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Yea I’ve got the service manual. Im following the pattern it shows. I guess I’ll continue to use the old journal bolts until after my clearances are checked and I’ll turn the plasti gage around and see where that takes me.

Jay.2515 said:

Yea I can try it the other way too. I tried my best to get it on the side of the oil groove. Came out alright but I’m also using the old journal bolts and I feel like it’s not torquing down enough. I’m afraid if I use my new journal bolts they will stretch or am I over thinking it? Lol

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There's a specific tightening procedure for old bolts to check the clearance in the service manual. Once you have the correct clearance, you replace with new bolts for the final assembly.

09_Blade said:

There's a specific tightening procedure for old bolts to check the clearance in the service manual. Once you have the correct clearance, you replace with new bolts for the final assembly.

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Okay so, used the correct sequence as I have been doing, turned the plasti gauge long ways and torqued down again. Using green plasti gauge I’m measuring pretty much .038mm across all the journals. Spec is suppose to be .019-.037 with a service limit of .05. What exactly does the service limit mean? And also I feel as if they’re not torquing down enough after torque spec because the bolts are stretched. I can effortlessly Losen the journal bolts? Everyone think I’m good if the service limit means I have .05 to play with?

The specification .019-.037 is the ideal clearance. A USED bearing is ok until it exceeds the service limit, then it MUST be replaced.

I'm sure you'd be ok with .038mm. The bearing will have a shorter lifespan, however long that may be. And if you plan on using scotch brite on the cylinders, you may be back soon to recheck them anyways.

TurboDave said:

The specification .019-.037 is the ideal clearance. A USED bearing is ok until it exceeds the service limit, then it MUST be replaced.

I'm sure you'd be ok with .038mm. The bearing will have a shorter lifespan, however long that may be. And if you plan on using scotch brite on the cylinders, you may be back soon to recheck them anyways.

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Well I’d like to have the specs right so I’ll throw some bigger bearings in it and see where that takes me.

and as much as I like speaking with you guys I’d like to not have to return to this page for quite some time lol. And what do you mean haha, I figured the scotch brite was the way to go with these cylinder…..??

Jay.2515 said:

Well I’d like to have the specs right so I’ll throw some bigger bearings in it and see where that takes me.

and as much as I like speaking with you guys I’d like to not have to return to this page for quite some time lol. And what do you mean haha, I figured the scotch brite was the way to go with these cylinder…..??

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I'm convinced re-plating is the way to go. If anything, I'd use the ball hone for just a few seconds. Scotch brite maybe just to clean the top of the cylinder. Ask around. Maybe even Millennium will answer some questions. I've bored and honed many steel cylinders, but I just don't know when it comes to plated cylinders.

TurboDave said:

I'm convinced re-plating is the way to go. If anything, I'd use the ball hone for just a few seconds. Scotch brite maybe just to clean the top of the cylinder. Ask around. Maybe even Millennium will answer some questions. I've bored and honed many steel cylinders, but I just don't know when it comes to plated cylinders.

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I agree, replating is definitely the way to go. I called up to millennium and one of the guys told me to use an AO or SC ball hone 240 grit for no more than 3 passes and if it’s gotta cross hatch after then I’m good to go and if it doesn’t have one then to call him back for a replate so fingers crossed

Okay so I’ve found 2 misc pieces that idk where they go. One is an oil passage and one kinda looks like a spacer. The forums aren’t letting me post any pics so if there is a way I can show them lmk. It’s saying extension files isn’t allowed.

Oil pump seal support and I think transmission plate orifice.

TurboDave said:

Oil pump seal support and I think transmission plate orifice.

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Life saver bro! Thanks a lot.

TurboDave said:

Trans plate orifice is #8 above and circled on the case photo.

Oil pump dowel/support/collar is #8 below.
View attachment 267659

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what would be a good substitute for flex hone oil. I got some marvel mystery oil but idk if that’s the route to take with it??

Im no expert on hone oil but I'd assume any clean light weight motor oil would be fine.

TurboDave said:

Im no expert on hone oil but I'd assume any clean light weight motor oil would be fine.

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I also got some Mobil 1 racing 10w-40 full synthetic as well.. would that fit under the category of a clean oil? Or are you referring to it just being new oil lol?

Clean as in new.