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Discussion Starter #1
@Bosston factory suspension settings are a very good place to start. The best place to start when you don't know what question(s) to ask is to start with what issues are you experiencing? Does the bike turn well? Does it run wide on exit? Does it fight you on turn in? Does the suspension feel too soft or too hard?
@roadracerx Moved the discussion to the suspension area.

I will try to answer as best as I can since my riding experience is limited and don't have a lot of comparisons to draw against.
I used to ride a lot and felt I had a good enough control on the bike, on street and track. After a long gap however, I got back into the sport this year with the purchase of this 07 CBR. Take what I say below in that context.
But I also say, I try to qualify my answers.

Does the suspension feel too soft or too hard?
- I've only ridden this bike, after a few months of repairs, only on the track. So haven't had a lot of chances to see how the suspension soaks up bumps and holes. On the track however, it feels to be good. It doesn't seem bouncy. I feel it's connected.

Does it fight you on turn in?
- it feels like it tracks well. I know i've made some jerky moves on some turns with body movement or braking and the bike didn't get upset. I also, once, turned too early and went over the inside curb. the front went up and came back on pavement just fine. bit of pucker moment for me, but the bike just tracked.


Saved the best question for last:

Does the bike turn well?
- it doesn't feel as flick able as my old FZR, but I attributed that to being a bigger bike. there might be something a foot here!

Does it run wide on exit?
- It definitely feels like it. During my last track session, I was following the instructor and at the same time practicing tightening or widening of turns by using the throttle. What I noticed that getting on the throttle would make me go wide a lot more than expected. Both myself and the instructor would approach the turn at around the same speed, but he was able to carry a higher speed and a tighter line through the turn and exit. I would then have to play catch up in the gap to the next turn.

Up to today, I've been attributing widening of my line to opening up the throttle too early, but your questions turned on a thought that this really could be suspension related.

A few facts about the bike
I'm running bridge stone bt 22s
--factory size of 120-70 in the front
-- 190-55 in the back, instead of the factory recommended 190-50
The guy I bought from both shorter and lighter than me. It is possible that he adjusted the back side to be shorter.
He also told me that the front fork oil and seals were recently changed. I don't see any fork seal leaks, so I assume he was truthful, considering the age of bike.


If you had the patience to read this long essay, bravo! :)
 

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Interesting about the shock length. So you mention you think it was shortened? Can you look on the bottom of the shock to see if there is a 22-24 mm nut that can be loosened to allow a change in length to the shock please?

Also how much of the fork tube (not including the cap) is above the top clamp?
 

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try Sport-rider's settings, it's a a good base to start from before working on settings & potentially making things worse:
Follow that with their setup guide if you feel you still need fine tuning:

If all else fails contact a pro like Dave Moss, he assisted me remotely with a specific issue I had on my 08
 

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Dave Moss once said that the CBR1000RR needs +5mm at the rear and to either adjust the shock length or run a tire that will be taller. He never said why. How much truth is there in this?
 

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Dave Moss once said that the CBR1000RR needs +5mm at the rear and to either adjust the shock length or run a tire that will be taller. He never said why. How much truth is there in this?
Dave is excellent and he actually trained me 15 years ago. Raising the rear through tire size or geometry makes sense but it matter where the fork ride height is. Everything is relative.
 

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The 04-05 bikes need A LOT more Trail in the geometry, the 06-07 need more than stock, but not as much as the 04-05 bikes.

I do not have time this evening to delve into the details of it, but I will drop these 2 tidbits of info:

1. Just because someone is very well known in their respective field whether it be a doctor, lawyer or even a famous actor that does not automatically make them proficient at what they do. Everyone here knows who Nicolas Cage is...

2. Here is an article I wrote quite some time ago that will get you the basics of geometry tuning and at the very least make you ask the pertinent questions about what your bike is doing.
 

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@LDH maybe you can post here the recommended ride height front and rear for each gen of the bike and the tires you find that work well for users who want to do it all....something like a Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP/TD

I was going to help @Bosston to work through his setup step by step starting with front and rear rider and bike sag. Now I know some tuners don't like to talk about sag BUT for me is works 100% of the time for 99% of the riders out there.

I recommend what Ohlins ecommends which fork bike sag at 25-30 mm, rider sag at 40 mm and shock bike sag 10-15 mm and rider 30 mm. This is going to solve most of their problems.

From there getting the fork rebound set properly is where I like to start, then balance the rear to the front. I set compression to feel and rider use and skill level but in general I try to run as little damping control as possible and let the fork and shock do what it is meant to do, damp.

Looking forward to your setup info for the group...
 

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I’m a firm believer in riding a bike as is quite a few times before “fixing” it. Every bike feels fucked up after you’ve been riding other bikes then buy a new one. All the worse if you’ve been away from riding for a while.
 

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You wouldn't happen to have a shock dyno would you? I've always wondered how changing the bleed adjusters on an Ohlins shock affects the damping curve.
 

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Shock Dyno's are a neccessary tool of any suspension tuner.

What Ohlins shock model do you actually have? Various versions of the TTX line all the way to the current TTX-GP have drastically different noses based on which valve set they utilize even when the main damping curve remains similar between them.
 

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HO360. Reason I ask is because recommended rebound 13 and compression 10 is insanely stiff and sends a shockwave up my spine over big bumps. The rebound is also really slow. I have it backed out to 20 on compression and 18 on rebound but I recall you mentioning to not go beyond 2-3 clicks of recommended.
 

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You have done the exact opposite of you what you need to do to make the bike stop jolting. That far out you are basically wide open on the damping and it just becomes a pogo effect on the spring alone with no control in either direction.

What do you weigh?
What spring is installed?
What is your rider sag?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Also how much of the fork tube (not including the cap) is above the top clamp?
I took some pictures to show what I see.

i measured from triple clamp to the top of the flat part of the gold area. it varies around 4.0 to 4.5mm, depending on where measured around the cap.

261550


261551
 

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You have done the exact opposite of you what you need to do to make the bike stop jolting. That far out you are basically wide open on the damping and it just becomes a pogo effect on the spring alone with no control in either direction.

What do you weigh?
What spring is installed?
What is your rider sag?
145lbs
95N/mm spring
35mm rider sag
Stock length

It came with a 120N/mm spring that I swapped out does Ohlins vary valving based on rider weight?
 

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You need a 100Nm spring. You have to get the spring correct or nothing else will fall in line with your set-up.
Set sag to 30mm
Comp 10, Reb 14

That is a fairly old shock as well so if you have not had it serviced since you bought it then it is likely very overdue and damping will suffer.
 

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Forgot to mention I removed 20lbs of ABS and 15lbs exhaust/CA emissions junk will that make a difference in spring?

Glad to hear from you on these forums again!
 

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Forgot to mention I removed 20lbs of ABS and 15lbs exhaust/CA emissions junk will that make a difference in spring?
ABS systems do not weigh 20lbs so I doubt that any of that will have any significant effect on the overall support required for your weight perched on top of the bike. If you want to test it though. Set your sag to 30mm with the existing spring you have and see how much preload it takes to get you there.
 

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That depends on where I put the remote adjuster. With the collar 6.5mm from the top of the shock right now it takes 16 turns of the remote adjuster to get 30mm sag.
 
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