Honda CBR 1000RR Forums banner

stm clutch help!

7584 Views 25 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  crash angel
Just installed the clutch according to the STM instructions and when i put the bike on 1st, start wanting to rollaway even with the lever all the way in. then i try to go from 1st to 2nd but it doesnt even go to neutral, can somebody help me please.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
ah and i put the judder spring just in and still did the same thing.
When I installed one on my YZ450F for Supermoto, I had to put a spacer to pull the cable back some. the lever had a lot of free play before it would even pull the actuator. I'm assuming that your clutch is hydraulic, I don't know what to tell you to do.

The clutch acts as if it needs an component between the push rod and the clutch to take up the space (or a longer push rod). Check the instructions again and call the distributer/manufacture. I'll be standing by hoping you get a good answer.

Good luck,
Thanks,it's just that on the instructions don't mention any spacer for the push rod or anything like it. here are the instruction to see if anybody can add something else



-Insert the washer (0F3SR230C220045), only if the bike is prior
to 2005 (included) in the shaft without removing the original one.
-Assemble hub kit: place progressive engagement plate
(003MG015) on hub (0F3SR230C22001B), with the step facing
up, put it correctly into its seats, then check that pushing on one
side the other side lifts up.
Put 6 steel balls (001MG025), into the grooves with some grease.
Fix with a screw (M6x1) the drum (0F3SR230C22002B) on hub
(0F3SR230C22001B) in rest position.
-Insert hub kit on primary shaft.
- Install original plates
Total thickness of plates kit must be 43,7mm.
N.B: Attention, if in original plates kit there are two rings,
they should not be assembled into plates kit absolutely.
-Remove the screw from the hub
-Place the drum stopper hub (0F3SR230C220009) on hub
(0F3SR230C22001B) with a little amount of grease.
-Insert toothed washer (901RD004) into the upper part of drum
stopper hub (0F3SR230C220009), with the shaped part facing
-Assemble secondary spring (0S2085) in its seat, into the drum
(0F3SR620D22002C), with some grease.
-Insert pusher plate (0F3SR230C220003) into drum seats
(0F3SR230C22002B), into the pusher plate
(0F3SR230C220003), then insert Evoluzione racing spring
Pre- assemble the spring stopper kit: :
insert the bearing (003MGP07) between the spring pusher plate
(003MG108) and the hub spring stopper (0F3SR230C220007);
Apply some medium thread locker on the shaft thread.
Insert the spring stopper kit into the Evoluzione main spring
(0S1125) previously assembled on pusher plate
(0F3SR230C220003) screwing the spring stopper hub on main
shaft, using STM tool (008AMY002) ) included into the package,
lock with the dynamometric key to the torque suggested by the
Pre-assemble the bearing rest holder kit:
assemble the bearing rest and the toothed pull pin (of the original
clutch) inserting all in the seat of the bearing rest
-Put the bearing rest (0F3SR230B14R004) into pusher plate
seat (0F3SR540B140003), paying attention to insert it correctly
into grooves and fix with the six screws (901VT018). Minor
adjustments at the lever can be necessary.

NB: once completed the assembly pull and release the
clutch lever checking that pusher plate performs opening
and closing movements correctly.


toothed washer
Bearing rest holder

Spring stopper hub

Ball bearing

Primary pusher spring

Evoluzione primary

Primary spring support

Pusher plate

Secondary spring

Toothed washer

Drum stopper hub

Secondary spring
support thickness


Spheres (N°6)


engagement plate

(to be used only if the
bike is prior to 2005,


Strada Fontaneto Regione Gioncheto – 10023 Chieri ( TO )
Tel +39 011 9422832 Fax + Internet: it
E–mail: [email protected]
39 011 9471447
- In this sheet are reported the directions to perform correctly the clutch assembly operations.
- STM reserves the right - without notice - to introduce any technical change whenever deemed it
to be necessary to improve functionality and quality of the products.
- Assembly operations must be performed by a skilled technician and must be scrupulously observed.
Before mounting the clutch make a complete inspection of the various parts, in order to verify the
possible presence of faults or anomalies on the motorbike.
- Make sure that there are no missing/damaged parts in the package .
- Some parts of the clutch and its components can have sharp surface: handle with care.
- Some components of the clutch, because of their small dimensions can be swallowed: keep away from
See less See more
Make absolutely sure the clutch basket is seated. I had a problem with this reinstalling my JTR slipper a few years ago. It wasn't seated properly but everything else lined up ok, only I noticed there weren't as many threads showing past the nut. Put everything back together and the rod wouldn't actuate the clutch. Lever felt like it wasn't getting any resistance. Took everything off and noticed the clutch basket wasn't quite seated right. Lined it up right and it solved all the problems. Maybe not your problem but is worth looking at.
i check and the basket is seated all the way, took her for a spin and notice that the clutch lever will disengage,i was going around 40mph pull the clutch in and it silence the engine, but when stop it wanna keep rolling and to shift up have to go fast like if i was shifting without the clutch.
When you pull the lever it should feel the same as with a standard clutch. You should be able to feel the pressure as it grabs when you first start squeezing. If this isn't the case, either you need to bleed the clutch lines or if this is a used set, you might need new springs.
I said bleed the lines, that is if you have the older model hydraulic clutch. If you have the newer model then adjust the slack..
I did the lines and no even a tiny bubble came out, i have an 07 model with the rcs 16 brembo m/c, the pull of the clutch feels normal its just that the clutch still grabbing even with the lever pull and i dont have anymore adjustment in the lever(is all out). I'm thinking if I overtorque the nut what would happen. I used and electric impact gun and have like 2 or 3 threads showing.
oh and when i pull the lever i see the pusher plate move a little but it brings the disks and clutch plates with it.
The lever adjustment dial is just for the lever position, it won't have an effect on anything. It still sounds like the basket isn't seated or the springs are weak. One other thing I can think of... My slipper is a different brand but came with two washers. One was concave the other flat. Did yours?
came with one concave washer,the holes in the back of the basket felt like they seated in the pins and when i look at the gears the one from the basket is in the center of the other gear(towards the front).
well i'll take it apart one more time in the morning, and start from scratch and if it doesn't work i'll tak to the shop or buy a new oem drum since i broke the original one trying to get it out by putting some bolts to hold it while removing the nut.
Still have it pointing to it not being seated.. Here's an image: The basket (1) and bushing (8) can be slightly misaligned. The gears will look right but it's not all the way seated. I know it's a pain but you've got a problem somewhere and unless your springs are worn out you're going to have to pull it and figure where the slack is that's not allowing the rod it's full travel to fully engage the clutch.
See less See more
I check and double check and the basket is in the slot of the oil drive. do you use the washer between the center clutch and the outter basket? Thats seems to be the distance I need.
Well one thing is that you cannot use a an impact to drive the nut in. It has to be torqued to either the specs that STM dictates or that the stock clutch was torqued to (STM instructions will tell you which).

I torqued mine with an impact and it didn't slip at all. It just worked like a normal clutch until I backed it off and torqued to specs.

At this point, this needs to be done or else you're wasting you time with a "slipper" clutch.

ok i took her for another ride and on the freeway it works smoth but when i'm around town is a little hard to switch gears, i have to blimp the throttle. the clutch lever cuts the engine power down whenever is pulled in but still rolls away in a stop sign but less than before. well i'll be taking her to the track tomorrow and monday take it to the shop if it doesnt get better.
Did you install all new plates when you put the clutch in? I did, and they were actually a little thicker than what the spec said they should be. Shifting required a little extra effort, and finding neutral was a bitch. After a session or two at the track, it broke in and worked perfect.
Yes, I put all new plates and everything you describe is happing so hopefully after tomorrow it would work like yours.What about the rolling forward?
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.