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Discussion Starter #1
Recently flashed a woolich autotune session in my 2015 standard ECU and now have a high idle around 14-16 hundred RPM. It's like it won't kick down out of high idle like during warm up but it does this randomly while riding (coming to a stop at lights) . Sometimes it does it, then kicks down to the set 1200 rpm and sometimes it stays high.
In the Woich software I have the rpm set at 1200 rpm since I have an aftermarket clutch lever so no clutch switch, it's jumped out with a fuse.
Never had the issue til this last ECU flash
Any ideas?
 

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It’s not just the cold start when the rom is high is it? Because if it does then that’s normal.


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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No bike is to temp and it will do this even after an hour of riding in 90 plus degree weather when the temp Guage shows 175-210
But I also noticed it won't come down off high idle on initial start up even after being warmed to operating temp (180) even if I blip the throttle.
Wierd part is its random, sometimes it will vary between 1200 and 1600 jumping back and forth.
Could this be a symptom of my cam chain tensioner? It started the buzz noise a month or so ago and I just haven't replaced it yet
 

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I don’t believe it would be cam chain related. The intermittent nature would have me looking at the kickstand switch bypass setup connections closely. Sometimes it’s the simple things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah that's what I'm thinking as well.
I checked my throttle cable adjustments and plan on checking the contacts to the fuse I have to jump out the clutch switch. I will also take a look at the kickstand switch.
I am also going to change the RPM idle to 1000 in the woolich software next ECU flash and see if the idle RPM actually changes and what effect it has on the surging/hunting/sporatic idle
 

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How are you? Hope you are getting fun miles in this summer. I was about to post similar issue. Today after filling up and riding at pretty good pace I noticed weird shifting and noticed my r's were almost double what they should be when pulling in the clutch. I stopped and checked what I could think of and it persisted after firing it back up. I was 15 minutes early to meet the fellas and happened to pass a car restoration shop. I turned around and asked the kid working the weirdest question he had all week Im sure. I had him siphon out my gas because that seemed to be the only thing I could relate to the timing of this weird idle. I ran to an ace and picked up a bottle of seafoam poured about 2/3 into the half gallon that was left in the tank and topped it off. Now, I know this all sounds crazy and stupid but after about 3 miles on the new gas....idled/ran fine for the rest of the day. Im worried this might resurface since Im not sure that bad gas could have caused that issue even if that was the case.
 

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Recently flashed a woolich autotune session in my 2015 standard ECU and now have a high idle around 14-16 hundred RPM. It's like it won't kick down out of high idle like during warm up but it does this randomly while riding (coming to a stop at lights) . Sometimes it does it, then kicks down to the set 1200 rpm and sometimes it stays high.
In the Woich software I have the rpm set at 1200 rpm since I have an aftermarket clutch lever so no clutch switch, it's jumped out with a fuse.
Never had the issue til this last ECU flash
Any ideas?
In Woolich, check under the "Configuration" button and see if you have "Unify Ignition Group Maps" checked. If you do, that's most likely what is causing the high idle. Additionally, if it was checked, you'll need to reapply your ignition tables. Just unchecking it won't reset the tables that ended up getting adjusted by grouping them. On my '17, I tested what that option did and it caused me to have a high idle when in N or having the clutch pulled in. Hope that helps.
259265
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In Woolich, check under the "Configuration" button and see if you have "Unify Ignition Group Maps" checked. If you do, that's most likely what is causing the high idle. Additionally, if it was checked, you'll need to reapply your ignition tables. Just unchecking it won't reset the tables that ended up getting adjusted by grouping them. On my '17, I tested what that option did and it caused me to have a high idle when in N or having the clutch pulled in. Hope that helps. View attachment 259265
Looks like that's exactly what happened! Thanks for posting this.
Did you just go back to a previous session or did you copy and paste the original ignition maps into your current session?
If I uncheck the unify ignition group maps and then copy and paste the original maps (from woolich mapshare) into my current file I should be good to go right?

This is one of the only complaints I have with the woolich autotune system. I have yet to find any explanation of what all the settings are (mostly on the autotune setting screen) and when I should be using them. I realize all these options are for all makes/models so some the setting apply and some do not for any given specific bike but that doesn't help the end user unless you are a well versed and experienced tuner which the majority of us are not
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Now that you have drawn my attention to this issue I am starting to wonder if me having an aftermarket clutch lever/perch without a clutch switch isn't causing my ECU to think I always have the clutch pulled in and is using those ignition maps. My clutch switch is jumped out with a fuse.
Or does the ECU recognize I have the bike in gear and use the "in gear" ignition maps regardless of wether the clutch is pulled or not?
 

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Yea, after I realized how it affected it, I just pulled over the ign tables from the stock bin file (I used a euro ECU) and just pasted them in, been fine ever since. It is true how they don’t really go into detail on alot of the additional options, what they do and why you would or wouldn’t use them. As for the clutch switch, I’m not 100% if it would trick the ECU or not, I believe it’s just a safety switch that prevents you starting the bike without having clutch pulled in if in gear (or jumpered) like the kickstand switch, but i could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would have to guess the ECU has to use the clutch switch to determine whether the clutch is pulled in or not since it has ignition maps seperate for in gear and neutral/clutch in. You can also filter out clutch in data collected while autotuning and when I do check the box to filter out clutch in data no cell data populates at all in autotune but when I uncheck the box data populates the cells logged.

Guess I'm gonna have to verify this for sure or go back to using a clutch with the switch
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a quick update.

Went back to the base map share (basically EU) ignition maps and flashed without unifying ignition group maps and now the bike kicks down easily out of high idle and stays dead on at the set 1200 rpm's so that was definitely the issue.
Thanks Shinji43!
 
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