Nice write up. I was just about to do one. But since you already did, I will just post my pics in your thread.You do not have to remove the fuel tank and all that other crazy stuff other people are saying. Here is what I did.
1. Remove seat
2. Take rear section plastic off. This is the only part that may differ. If you already have installed a FE then it is easier because you should have already drilled out the plastic box to get to the screw that held the stock fender on.
3. Take off the 2 brackets that hold the rear section together in the center. 8 bolts total.
4. Loosen the bolt to the very rear near the tail light that holds the frame together. You do not have to take it all the way off. Just make it to where you have some play in it.
5. Then one side at a time take the sub frame bolts out. One has a nut on the back side. You also have to remove the allen screw that hold the tank plastic to the sub frame and the one holding the rear of the fuel tank.
6. Once this is done the frame piece should swing loose plenty enough to get to the pegs. They are on tight so before you start pulling cover your frame with a towel or blanket to keep from scratching it.
7. Then install the street hooks. After that put that side back together and move to the other side.
It took me about 30-45 min. Like I said it will be fast if you have a FE already installed. But I wouldnt think it would take my 5-10min if you havent. And god they are sexy looking. Really cleans up the looks.
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1. Remove the rider seat and the passenger seat or seat cowl
2. Remove the 4 screws circled in red
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You can now slide the rear cowl off. You will need to use a little bit of force to slide it off. But don't worry, it shouldn't break (unless you go crazy and pull way too hard).
2. Remove the 4 screws circled in red
You can now slide the rear cowl off. You will need to use a little bit of force to slide it off. But don't worry, it shouldn't break (unless you go crazy and pull way too hard).
3. Remove the 2 brackets
-Top bracket (remove 4 bolts circled in red)
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Bottom bracket (remove 4 bolts circled in red-torque to 12 N*m or 9 lbf*ft)
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The screw in the yellow circle is for my Hotbodies FE. I don't remember exactly, but looking at the service manual, there are a total of 3 screws that you have to worry about if you have the stock undertail. There is one where I have the yellow circle, but it is on the other side of the battery tray. Then there are 2 other screws that are under the battery try that screw into the stock undertail. The easy way to get to these 2 screws is to drill a hole through the battery tray and then unscrew them.
-Top bracket (remove 4 bolts circled in red)
Bottom bracket (remove 4 bolts circled in red-torque to 12 N*m or 9 lbf*ft)
The screw in the yellow circle is for my Hotbodies FE. I don't remember exactly, but looking at the service manual, there are a total of 3 screws that you have to worry about if you have the stock undertail. There is one where I have the yellow circle, but it is on the other side of the battery tray. Then there are 2 other screws that are under the battery try that screw into the stock undertail. The easy way to get to these 2 screws is to drill a hole through the battery tray and then unscrew them.
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Zipfer, you forgot this one so I'll leave it un-numbered to stay with the numbering you have.
Remove the 2 plastic trim clips circled in red
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Remove the 2 plastic trim clips circled in red
4. Zipfer and I did this differently. I removed the bolt circled in red (torque to 30 N*m or 22 lbf*ft). I guess you can do either, but removing it allows more freedom to swing the subframe outwards.
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5. Loosen the subframe bolts circled in red (the lower bolts have nuts which you should remove when you loosen the bolts-seat rail mounting nut is 54 N*m or 40 lb*ft and the seat rail mounting bolt is 32 lbf*ft)
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Loosen the 2 tank bolts and 2 tank shelter bolts (3 of which are circled in red)
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Loosen the 2 tank bolts and 2 tank shelter bolts (3 of which are circled in red)
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A couple of pictures of mine when done
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