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Parts Guy
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to complete your PAIR removal using either blockoff plates or just bypass caps. I did my bike blockoff plates and my buddies the next day with bypass caps. Read the ENTIRE step first before you start the step. If you can’t rotate your tank without instructions, please click the “back” button now.
Difficulty: 3.5/10
Required Tools needed: (1) Long standard #2 Screwdriver (phillips), (1) Needle-nose pliers/vice-grips, (1) Size 6 Allen Key, (5) Rags/Towels, (1) Tube of sealant.
If using blockoff plates you will need: (2) Blockoff plates, (1) Bypass caps, (1) Tube of Loc-tite, (1) 8mm Socket w/ Ratchet, (1) Flat-Head Screwdriver.
If using only bypass caps you will need: (3) 5/8” bypass caps.
Step #1. Rotate your tank, unclip the fuel drain hose. Hold the tank back with a bungee or something.
Step #2. Remove the heat pad (or whatever its purpose is) from your airbox.
Step #3. Disconnect all 8 plugs highlighted.

Step #4. Unclip the plug furthest to the left by pulling out on the red tab and sliding it off of the bracket.
Step #5. Unscrew the 2 highlighted screws which hold the bracket over your ECM. Then rotate the wire bundle to the left side of the bike.

Step #6. Unscrew the 6 highlighted screws holding your airbox on.

Step #7. Disconnect the fuel line from the injectors. Pull the rubber stopper out first. Then, using the needle-nose pliers to squeeze the two green tabs together pull the line down. Close your eyes when doing this, she’s a squirter. I fit a rag underneath the connector to soak up the fuel that is still in the lines. It’s not much fuel.

Step #8. Now take off the upper half of the airbox and you will see your Air Filter and Velocity Stacks.

Step #9. Remove your velocity stacks by unscrewing the six highlighted screws. Be cautious when doing this, they strip very easy.

Step #10. Remove your air filter by unscrewing the two highlighted screws. Now would be an excellent time to clean your air filter if you haven’t lately.

Step #11. Start to slowly lift up on the lower part of the airbox, you will see a few tubes and wires holding it down still. On the bottom of the airbox on the right rear side, you will find a small vacuum tube and a pressure sensor wire. Unplug both. (Both will be put back on.)

Step #12. Pull up a little more to unveil the pair inlet hose connected underneath on the right side, midway up. Disconnect it. (This is where you will put one of your bypass caps in Step #19)
Step #13. Find the crankcase breather hose located underneath at the front and center of the airbox. Disconnect it. (Will be put back on.)

Step #14. Completely remove the lower airbox, this may require some wiggling. Now use your rags to plug your throttle body openings so nothing falls into them.

Step #15. Pull back the rubber covering enough to get to see the PAIR valve with the hoses attached to the 2 silver plates.
 

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Parts Guy
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Step #16. Unplug the hoses off of the 2 silver plates. Then unplug the electrical connector from the PAIR valve in the middle. (This will not be plugged back in.) Now pull the PAIR valve along with the hoses completely out of the airbox. (Save the large metal clamps off of the hoses, but the rest of the assembly will not be used again.)


If using blockoff plates, skip to Step #19.
If using plugs, continue with Step #17.
Step #17. Cap the two nipples on top of the silver plates. I put some high temp sealant I had left over from my blockoff plates inside of the caps before putting them on.


Step #18. Using the clamps from the hoses in Step #16, put them over the caps on the nipples. (Get it? Nipple clamps! Oh, well I thought it was funny…)
Step #19. Go back to the lower airbox half you removed in Step #12. On the bottom, you will see another nipple on the right side. Cap it using sealant.


If you used the caps, put everything back together and you’re done!
If you’re using blockoff plates, carry on!
Step #20. Remove 2 bolts from each silver plate (8mm bolts). I just took out my fairing bolts on the left side enough to move my air intake tube out of the way. The right side was easy enough…

Step #21. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pop the plates off. With your needle-nose pliers remove 2 baffles and 2 valves on each plate. (Some people will leave the baffles and valves in to ensure a seal, I didn’t.)

Step #22. Apply your sealant to the back side of the plates and loc-tite to the bolts.

Step #23. Bolt back down. Put your junk back together, and you’re done!

Don’t freak out if you get a check engine light. You probably left something unplugged. I did this job pretty much in the pitch black and forgot to plug the pressure sensor in Step #11 back in. That sucked. I’m not responsible for you messing anything up. If you did it right you should have an accurate AFR reading for the dyno and autotune. NO this does not give you any more horsepower or make your bike sound better. You save about .5 lb of weight. That’s all I can think of… If you don’t like my work then :flipoff:
 

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Parts Guy
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Oh, and thank you to Jlove for supplying some of the pictures I didn't have.
 

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motomadness
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89 Posts
Excellent write-up and pics. Thanks for going to the extra trouble. Means someone with moderate mechanical skill like me can actually do this. I have the airbox stripped down and my cyl head exposed at the moment waiting on my Quickshifter (Annitori standalone), so I figured I might give this a go as it will give me more room to work etc. However, I have one question that's been bugging me all through reading this thread and the other (stickied) Pair removal thread.

I still have the stock Oxygen sensor in my headers (Akra slipon). So won't the removal of air injection into the exhaust gas make the sensor report a rich mixture compared to what it is expecting? If so, wont that make the ECU pump less fuel through the injectors to correct that "error"? It concerns me because in theory that will make the bike run lean.

Or have I missed something really simple here? :shrug:

Nobody has reported any issues as far as I have found, so maybe it just doesn't matter, but I don't have an aftermarket fuel control system, so am relying on the stock ECU. . . What does the brains trust think?
 

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Parts Guy
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The only point of the PAIR is to clean emissions up. I think... It doesn't effect your ECU at all... But it WOULD effect an autotune or dyno readings.

Excellent write-up and pics. Thanks for going to the extra trouble. Means someone with moderate mechanical skill like me can actually do this. I have the airbox stripped down and my cyl head exposed at the moment waiting on my Quickshifter (Annitori standalone), so I figured I might give this a go as it will give me more room to work etc. However, I have one question that's been bugging me all through reading this thread and the other (stickied) Pair removal thread.

I still have the stock Oxygen sensor in my headers (Akra slipon). So won't the removal of air injection into the exhaust gas make the sensor report a rich mixture compared to what it is expecting? If so, wont that make the ECU pump less fuel through the injectors to correct that "error"? It concerns me because in theory that will make the bike run lean.

Or have I missed something really simple here? :shrug:

Nobody has reported any issues as far as I have found, so maybe it just doesn't matter, but I don't have an aftermarket fuel control system, so am relying on the stock ECU. . . What does the brains trust think?


Sent from my ADR6300 using Motorcycle App
 

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Parts Guy
Joined
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
ProMed? Lol, where are you?
Excellent write-up and pics. Thanks for going to the extra trouble. Means someone with moderate mechanical skill like me can actually do this. I have the airbox stripped down and my cyl head exposed at the moment waiting on my Quickshifter (Annitori standalone), so I figured I might give this a go as it will give me more room to work etc. However, I have one question that's been bugging me all through reading this thread and the other (stickied) Pair removal thread.

I still have the stock Oxygen sensor in my headers (Akra slipon). So won't the removal of air injection into the exhaust gas make the sensor report a rich mixture compared to what it is expecting? If so, wont that make the ECU pump less fuel through the injectors to correct that "error"? It concerns me because in theory that will make the bike run lean.

Or have I missed something really simple here? :shrug:

Nobody has reported any issues as far as I have found, so maybe it just doesn't matter, but I don't have an aftermarket fuel control system, so am relying on the stock ECU. . . What does the brains trust think?


Sent from my Droid
 

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motomadness
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89 Posts
I get that, but I always thought the O2 sensor sent a reading of the exhaust oxygen content to the ECU, which then altered the injector feed in order to control emissions. If you run a power commander or similar, that doesn't matter, but if you're running just the stock ECU it probably would. Wouldn't it?

OTOH, maybe the ECU leaves the fuel alone and just tells the PAIR system to inject air in order to correct the exhaust O2.

Can't find out so far, but I reckon I need to know before I rip that shit outa there! :-/
 

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Parts Guy
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
OTOH, maybe the ECU leaves the fuel alone and just tells the PAIR system to inject air in order to correct the exhaust O2.

Can't find out so far, but I reckon I need to know before I rip that shit outa there! :-/
That's exactly correct. The PAIR mod does nothing to your fuel. Only effects the air which is let out right before your headers. Gimme a few and ill try to find the link that helped me understand it all.
Sent from my Droid
 

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Parts Guy
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Discussion Starter #13

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motomadness
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89 Posts
Excellent stuff. This page (http://www.speedysgarage.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_mods/1000RR_dynos/dynoruns.htm) actually carries fuel/air charts. Very good info re power results etc, but it doesn't fully answer the question. He ran it on the dyno with the stock ECU and PAIR disabled, which is basically the configuration I'm interested in, but did that trigger the ECU to lean off the injectors? Don't know for sure, but if his results can be taken at face value, the fuel/air in the pipe went slightly richer, suggesting PAIR removal won't adversely affect the ECUs fuel map.

Anyone see it differently? Oh, and thanks for finding that shit ice! How good is this board!
 

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Parts Guy
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1,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Glad I could help a bit. Ill get a guy in this thread who knows the answer to your remaining questions, I hope.

Sent from my Droid
 

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Premium Member
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6,957 Posts
On US bikes the PAIR system removal should not have any effect on the air fuel mixture that enters the combustion chamber since it only puts air into the exhaust after it exits the combustion chamber to help burn any unburned gasses. The reason it should be blocked on the dyno is that they are using an exhaust gas analyzer to help with adjusting the optimum fuel mixture on your fuel management system (pcv, etc). With the PAIR system in place the exhaust gas analyzer will read incorrectly since it adds extra oxygen into the exhaust.

lowrpm, since your bike has an O2 sensor unlike the US bikes and you are not using a fuel management I would guess you would want to leave the PAIR system in place. However, it may very well be an improvement over stock? I've never seen a before/after dyno test of just the PAIR system with a non-US bike that has the stock 02 system in place and no fuel management system.

The dyno results link that was posted from Speedy's Garage is a US bike that doesn't have an exhaust O2 sensor.

Clear as mud?
 

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motomadness
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89 Posts
ProMed, you are correct. The bike in that link didn't have an O2 sensor, so it turns out all that info is useless to me (although interesting!). I do understand about disabling the PAIR for Dyno runs, and when I get the cash for a Bazzaz TC system it'll be different. But for now I think all the evidence suggests just leave it alone if you're on the stock ECU alone. It's been an interesting exercise over the past few days all the same.

And I'd still love to hear from anyone who knows for sure does the o2 sensor interact with the injector feed, and in what way. Thanks again all!
 

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Premium Member
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And I'd still love to hear from anyone who knows for sure does the o2 sensor interact with the injector feed, and in what way. Thanks again all!
I believe the stock exhaust O2 sensor on your bike does pretty much the same thing as the exhaust gas analyzer used on a dyno except it is tied directly to the ECU.

I would be interested to know how well your stock bike would run with an O2 eliminator in place.

 

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motomadness
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89 Posts
After more research, it appears the O2 sensor does control the mixture input, but only in certain rpm ranges and at certain throttle positions (I think below about 5000 and steady throttle). Above or outside those conditions the O2 sensor's data is ignored by the ECU.

I am guessing therefore that if you put a sensor eliminator into the system, the ECU would default to some baseline fuel number at those revs. But what that number might be I don't know and I doubt we can easily find out without a Dyno run or two. My guess is that fitting the eliminator (from Dynojet for example) would be fine, but there doesn't seem much point in it unless you're going to fit the full system anyway, so for me the decision is made: leave it for now, change it when I get my Bazzaz system.

You gotta be impressed with how useful this place can be. I think we just added another tiny little chunk of knowledge to the whole PAIR system thread: Dont remove the PAIR system on a bike with an O2 sensor unless you fit an aftermarket fuel controller. Nice. :th_salute:
 

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Premium Member
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Hold up, if you know for sure it only controls 5k and lower I'd eliminate the O2 and pull the PAIR system. You don't spend much time there, certainly not for performance, and it would save you time whenever the Bazzaz is purchased!
 
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