there are so many factors that go into setting tire pressure for each individual that there really is no "right" tire pressure setting.
My suggestion would be to start with 32f/36r cold pressure and adjust from there by checking hot tire pressure. you want to see a 10% increase in front tire pressure and 20% in the rear on a street bike.
This is just a general guideline but should get you in the ballpark

I run 34f/32r. Pirelli Diablo Rosso III, 230lb rider without gear, strictly street riding with stock Showa BPF suspension

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

There are several videos and articles you can find doing a Google web search that will give you some insight into tire pressure settings and when/why you want to change them.

I like Dave Moss videos and articles but they are assuming you have a decent knowledge on a specific subject but many others out there will explain it in simple terms. Although it may seem complicated it really isn't.

Do some searching and watching/reading and if you don't find what you are looking for feel free to post here and ask.

 

There are several videos and articles you can find doing a Google web search that will give you some insight into tire pressure settings and when/why you want to change them.

I like Dave Moss videos and articles but they are assuming you have a decent knowledge on a specific subject but many others out there will explain it in simple terms. Although it may seem complicated it really isn't.

Do some searching and watching/reading and if you don't find what you are looking for feel free to post here and ask.

I like to have Dave Moss set up my suspension for my weight, I know after he do it, the bike would handle much better.

 

I’m running 36/40. So far I have not seen any reason to change that. In cooler weather I lower the pressure a couple of degrees. Keep in mind I have to do a lot of straight road riding to get to the curves. I’m trying to avoid flatening the center of the tread prematurely. From there I only make changes if I feel a need to.

 

I've been following the Dave Moss information on line. I've been doing adjustments myself. Fortunately I am very average size, so I don't have to do anything extreme on the Suspension.
On his tire pressure video, he recommends following the tire makers pressure settings, not the settings on the swing arm. I have a 2005, and as Dave Moss says, tire technology has changed a lot since the stock tires that came on my bike. A basic concept is, more pressure=more longevity...less tire pressure=more grip. Of course, rider size, suspension adjustments and riding purpose can change everything.....and I'm no expert, Dave Moss is.

 

I agree that the first reference point should be the recommendations from the current tire's vendor.
Then, go on from there to do your custom adjustments.

I do not ever do 75MPH at 70 degrees lean angle so, I do not need a pair of floppy saggy tires. Furthermore, I do not want to see my bike's MPG losing out to a Toyota Corolla.

 

I start at 30/30 cold on my ‘07 for pretty aggressive canyon riding in Northern Commiefornia. DunlopQ3+ tires. I weigh about 180 pounds in full gear. Dave Moss has set my bike up. BTW, he lives in NorCal...

 

Oh really, what locations did Dave Moss set up your bike? Does he do work in Northern California? Thanks for the reply.

 

Interesting that Dave Moss has created a market for himself (by identifying a problem for a niche application and creating a lot of dissatisfaction with your current setup).
What exactly is his credentials besides having the ability to make fairly good teaching videos on YouTube?

 

About Dave Moss - Dave Moss Tuning

davemosstuning.com

 

Dave Moss Web Site.

Dave Moss Tuning Homepage - Dave Moss Tuning

davemosstuning.com

 

I am still waiting for Dave to share why he tells people that M1 is corrupted and to use M2 to store suspension setup in on the SP/SP2.

As for tire pressures on the swing-arm, they are max safe cold operating pressure when bike is fully loaded at max capacity - those numbers have no bearing on performance.

As for Dave's credentials, much like me, he knows what he's talking about and people can choose to either listen or ignore what we say.

 

[...]
As for Dave's credentials, much like me, he knows what he's talking about and people can choose to either listen or ignore what we say.

🙌🙇‍♂️
Sometimes, it's good to see some strong doses of opposing opinions, just to serve as validations for your own.

 

I went for my first track day a few weeks ago and pumped up the tires what the manual said:

Front Cold tire
Up to 90 kg (200 Ibs) load 250 kPa (2.50 kgflcm'. 36 psi)
Up to maximum weight capacity 250 kPa (2.50 kgl/cm' . 36 psi)

Rear Cold tire
Up to 90 kg (200 Ibs) load 290 kPa (2.90 kgl/cm' . 42 psi) - pressure
Up to maximum weig ht capacity 290 kPa (2.90 kgl/cm .42 psi)

When I got to the track, the tech inspector kinda laughed and said, lower both to 30.

after some digging later on, I found a .pdf from Bridgestone, I have S22s, for what they recommend for "Track Day"

For S22 Front, 120/70ZR17 they recommend 30
For S22 Rear, 190/55ZR17 they recommend 26

just to show the big difference between what Honda says and what tire manufacturer says.

File attached.

 

My SC77 came with the tires at 38F and 45R LOL

I set them to 34F 36R for "fun" street riding. Feels good so far.

 

If you are just daily commuting the Honda recommended 36f/42r will be fine for most as it will give you maximum tire life. It is really a catch-all setting recommendation to cover any and all riders and situations.

When you start pushing the bike and your riding ability, change tires, or want a better feel and more grip is when you need to abandon the recommended pressure settings and optimize the settings for you.

I have gone through countless hours of trial and error setting changes and after doing so don't see how anyone is happy with 36f/42r.
The ride is rough, traction is limited, and the feel when pushing the bike at lean makes me uneasy. At 34f/32r I'm still getting 6k out of my rear and 9k plus out of my front on Pirelli Diablo Rosso III which I'm just fine with

It really is personal preference but I would recommend to everyone that you try different pressure settings and find what you feel comfortable with as that is all that really matters. If you feel confident in the feel, grip, and feedback at certain settings then they are correct for you.

 

If you are just daily commuting the Honda recommended 36f/42r will be fine for most as it will give you maximum tire life. It is really a catch-all setting recommendation to cover any and all riders and situations.

How would 36/42 compare to lower pressures in wet conditions?

 

Yes I would not run the sidewall or swingarm pressure unless I was full loaded with the max weight the bike could carry

 

31 front
30 rear
Canyons


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Just throwing in an interesting tidbit here: I've been looking at early Honda Pan Euros, and this behemoth of a bike, at a wet weight of 730 lbs/330 kg, STILL recommends Honda's benchmark 36/42 pressures. WTF?
Go figure .

 

The question in my mind is not the “Pan Euro” being 36/42. The question is why the CBR is that high. BTW, I had one....an ST1300 on this side of the pond. A very forgettable bike. I’ve owned several of the current Sport Touring bikes.

 

Max safe operating pressure fully loaded - from the tire manufacturers rather than Honda is my suspicion.

 

At the end of the day, there needs to be a balancing act among these trade-offs:

1. longevity of tires
2. performance at extreme lean angles under high speed conditions
3. MPG

The owner decides what he/she wants and go on from there. A good starting point is the recommendations from the tire manufacturer (although not all publish these. Can't see any published by Pirelli).

 

The tire pressures on the car door jamb or bike swing arm or tire side wall are simply MAX operating values. That is all. They have no bearing on performance, tire life, heat cycles, top speed or even fuel consumption - they are simply max pressure at max load for the safety of the vehicle operator.

 

The tire pressures on the car door jamb or bike swing arm or tire side wall are simply MAX operating values. That is all. They have no bearing on performance, tire life, heat cycles, top speed or even fuel consumption - they are simply max pressure at max load for the safety of the vehicle operator.

Swingarm figures matches those in Owner's manual.
They are not MAX but recommended.

 

I'm sorry that I have to strongly disagree that it is the MAX. Based on most Owner's manual, they all say it is the recommended, not the MAX.
See attached from 2018 CBR1000RR Honda manual.

 

Disagree all you want - the tire sidewall is going to tell you MAX safe operating pressure under full load.

 

Of course, Dave Moss, and all his believers will say that what Honda has recommended is absolutely 100% wrong.
It takes faith, followed by $$$, to believe in Dave Moss because if you need more of his preachings, you have to pay for it.

 

OK, understood. Disregard presented facts and stick arrogantly with your own words.

 

What facts?
The fact that the tire sidewall is not a recommended operating pressure but rather a max pressure for the max load as indicated?
I never offer any opinion that is not based in fact.

 

I think I should logout from this Forum for while.
Contents, such as these, are often said most arrogantly like they are undeniable gospel and they cannot be challenged even when they are inaccurate.

 

 

Totally agree with the vid. via check your tire pressures at least every other week.

 

I check mine once a week on both bikes. There's always a bit of loss if the ambient temperature stays the same. If the ambient temp is higher than when last checked, you might not have to add any air. If ambient temp is lower, then you will definitely have to add air after a week.

 

The "recommended" pressures are useless.

On my 18 blade with stock S21's I've found dropping the front to 32 psi and having the rear at 33 psi works pretty well on warm socal days.

Does anyone use the lap timer data logging functionality on the street? I did just for fun and the bike says I hit a max lean of 52 deg RH bank and 49 deg LH bank. Honestly I don't buy it!

 

Does anyone use the lap timer data logging functionality on the street? I did just for fun and the bike says I hit a max lean of 52 deg RH bank and 49 deg LH bank. Honestly I don't buy it!

Interestingly, the 2020 RR-R has that function within the TFT dash settings info 'tray'. I just found mine after more playing with settings. Didn't get anywhere near 52 and 49, and from how 34 felt on my bike I reckon there might be quite an inbuilt 'tolerance' level. (I concede I haven't been near roads where I can truly explore this. First service tomorrow and then I'll break loose.)

 

This would register 90 degrees of lean angle on a 2017-2019 CBR