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Titanium bolt weight

17820 Views 288 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Rusa
Don't know if anyone is interested but I just received my Front caliper Titanium bolts and weighed them vs stock steel for a 17 SP. Titanium is 24 grams vs stock steel 33 grams. So a reduction of 44 grams or 1.5 oz. Not much but then I am going for corrosion resistance and shine (bling).
I will be receiving front and rear rotor bolts and sprocket nuts in Titanium and will post their weights.

Now if I can just get accurate weight of the stock SP rims with bearing only then I can decide if I want the Marchesini Magnesium wheels. :)
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I got the caliper bolts off Ebay from a Chinese vendor, not bad cost. I got the rotor bolts and sprocket nuts from Ebay a vendor from England, a little pricey.
I considered BST Carbon fiber wheels but for the street I worry about a possible failure. When Carbon fiber fails it can be catastrophic vs a failure on Magnesium is bad but not SUPPOSED to be as bad. But I know the possibility of a failure is small, just interested in weight reduction over stock, but it has to be enough to make it worth the price.
Titanium axles would be nice, probably expensive, but nice.
The SP has Brembo calipers and they are very light but I wonder what metal the pistons are made of. :)
Received the Titanium front and rear brake rotor bolts and the rear sprocket nuts.
The stock sprocket nuts weigh 13.5 grams and the Ti nuts weigh 5 grams each so 30 grams or about an ounce saved.
The stock rear rotor bolts weigh 12 grams and the Ti bolts weigh 6.5 grams so 22 grams saved.
The stock front rotor bolts weigh 10 grams each and the Ti bolts weigh 4.5 grams, for a 66 gram or 2.35 ounces saved.
So total a quarter pound saved, not much but the shine and corrosion resistance is nice so worth it to me.
Now, about that personnel diet, I can stand to lose a few pounds, to bad it is not a easy as unbolt and re-bolt. :oops:
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Should have stated a total of 51 grams saved for the rear sprocket nuts, brain calculator malfunction.
Today I removed the front wheel to change the front fender to carbon fiber as well as exchange the caliper and rotor bolts for titanium ones. A jack stand under each foot peg and a rope around the handle bars and over the ceiling joist in the garage to hoist it up. Some weights:
The Stock front fender is 436 grams, the carbon fiber one is 328.5 grams.
The front axle weight is 383 grams, the axle nut is 73.5 grams.
The complete front wheel, rim, tire, spacers and rotors is 23.9 pounds.
Each stock rotor is 1237.5 grams.
And the little reflects weigh 24 grams each.;)
And the bike looks good.
Next is a tail fender eliminator and rear race rotor and titanium bolts and nuts.
Carry on.
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Tonight I pulled the rear wheel and replaced the brake rotor with the racing rotor and titanium bolts, then replace the sprocket nuts with the titanium ones.
Some random weights: rear axle 465 g, axle nut and washer 99.5 g, wheel spacers both L+R 57g, cush drive rubber bumpers 32 g each 190 g all, race brake rotor 448.5 g, stock rotor 745 g.
Stock sprocket 568g, drive hub only 966 g, Rear wheel rim and tire (stripped but w/ bearings) 24.7 lbs.
Been using a gel pad on the seat but on top of a hard seat, it doesn't do much good and it is heavy but adds an inch in seat height which is ok for my 6' frame, so I ordered a Luimoto SP race seat cover and gel pad. Hopefully it will extend ride time with comfort and remove that heavy gel pad, and look better doing it. :)
So I looked up the weight of a Pirelli Diablo Super Corsa that my SP is equipped with and it is listed at 13.6 pounds which means the stock rim with bearings is approximately 11.1 pounds. So the weight of the stock rims is comparable to the Marchesini Aluminum rims of 18 pounds for the front/back pair, and I think the BST carbon fiber wheels are similar in weight. The Marchesini Magnesium wheels are 6 pounds lighter and MUCH more expensive than the AL ones and a bit more than CF, so they might be a good option even at the price.
It is interesting that the difference from the SP1 and SP2 was said to be a more efficient head and Marchesini wheels and a $4k price difference between the bikes and that is what the wheels cost.

BTW the failed wheel above looks like a rotobox.
Ride on.
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Friday I received the carbon fiber part that goes over the taillight, black plastic out CF in. Looks good.
While in there I decided to weight my new Yoshimura Fender A replacement. The stock A fender with license plate, light and turn signals was 2 pounds, the Yosh with license plate, light and turn signals is 1.2 pounds. So a small weight loss, good because it is up high and hangs out over the end of the bike, and it is a much cleaner looking tail.
Now waiting for the Luimoto SP race seat cover.
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Putting all that on a spreadsheet would be interesting, could make it add or subtract the weight difference for the bike, but I think I might have removed two or three pounds total from the bike so probably not worth the effort, at least it is documented here. The carbon fiber looks better than the plastic but is not really lighter except for large items like the front fender.
I am still thinking about the wheels, the Marchesini Magnesium wheels are the lightest I have seen, and might be five pounds total lighter than stock, which would be significant being that it is unsprung and rotating weight, but I am seeing different numbers on the manufacturer website vs some of the distributor websites. Some of the distributors have the names for the aluminum and magnesium, Kompe Vs Corse, different from the manufacturer, reversed, so not sure if the numbers can be trusted if they don't know the product.
The stock wheels might be 20 pounds for both subtracting the tire weight given by the tire manufacturer but can't be sure until I wear out this set of tires and have them dismounted.
Decisions, Decisions. Would be an easy choice if they didn't cost so damn much.;)
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So today I talked to Stephano at Motowheels, he carries BST, Marchesini, and OZ, he said if I wanted the lightest wheel then the OZ Cattiva are lighter than the Marchesini and BST and are priced between the two. With front wheel at 6 lbs and rear at 9 lbs with the sprocket carrier. They come in an anodized gold which matches the bike and look nice. The only down side, other than cost :), is the lead time of 12 weeks as they are made to order. So something to think about.
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I checked the Motowheels website and found that the OZ forged aluminum wheels are not much heavier than the magnesium, about 1 pound for the front wheel at 7.1 pounds. And for the money difference I can live with a bit more weight. :)
I finally pulled the trigger on new wheel set for my ’17 SP. I figured if I was going to spend the money I wanted enough weight savings to make it worth while.
I looked at BST, OZ, Marchesini, Carrozzeria, and Titax.
The BST is fairly light and the only carbon fiber wheel of the bunch. The 7 spoke is what I considered. It is also fairly expensive.
The OZ Cattiva is forged magnesium and light, and the GASS RSA is forged aluminum and only slightly heavier. They are 6 curved spokes and look good. The Mag is priced like the BST.
The Marchesini is a 10 spoke design which looks kind of like stock. They come in a light forged magnesium, Corse, and aluminum, Kompe. The mag is the most expensive wheel set of the bunch.
The Carrozzeria is a 12 spoke forged aluminum which doesn't look to be any lighter than the stock wheels.
The Titax is a 10 spoke Forged aluminum wheel that looks like stock but is as light as the forged Mags, and you can use the stock size sprockets. They are also the least expensive of the bunch.
Some of the overall weight saving isn’t just in the wheels but also from the sprocket hub designs so you have to good at wheel weight and overall weight savings.
I choose the Titax wheels and was able to get them through a member here, Kannich Motorsports.
Have to ride through my current tires then I can get a new set of tires for the new wheels.
I can hardly wait to take that first ride on them. Then I will post pics of the bike.
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If you can believe the numbers on the websites the Titax wheels and about the same weight as the BST and half the price. Carbon fiber is good looking if made well, I have lots of it on my bike but, for me, the powder coat of light gold on the Titax wheels will keep the bike looking stock while performing better. Just my preference at this point.

I have manufactured parts with carbon fiber for my Corvette, for parts of equal thickness the carbon fiber is heavier than aluminum but because of the strength of the carbon fiber you can make it thinner. I have handed people a plate of 1/8" thick Carbon fiber, one foot square, and they are amazed at how heavy it is, extremely dense and strong, can't even flex it, would hold up a car without breaking a sweat. It is the material of choice for racing, strength vs weight, but for the street I am going with the forged aluminum.
Have a good one.
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Anyone have a link to some tasty titanium axles?
So since JDGUNs question about finding Titanium axles I have looked and found nothing for the '17-19 bike. So I started looking into having a set made.

If the front axle is 383g (13.5oz) and the rear axle is 465g (16.4oz) then the titanium is 43% of that, so front axle would be 165g (5.8oz) and the rear axle 200g (7.07oz), for a weight loss of 483g (17oz), just over a pound.

Just the material is expensive. To do one set with Grade 5 (6AL-4V) it would be $584, with Grade 23 (6AL-4V Eli) it would be $674, but for 5 sets each would be $484 in grade 5 and $580 in grade 23.

Then there is the machining and heat treating cost. So I will take dimensions of the original axles and talk to a few machine shops to see if I can find one experienced turning titanium and how much it will cost.

So I need to do more investigation but is anyone interested in a set of titanium axles if the cost is $800 to $1000.
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I was looking for less expensive sources for grade 5 titanium and found a place with cutoffs that are long enough to turn an axle from such that it might be possible to reach $100 for materials for a set of axles. So it is even more intriguing. Tomorrow I will be calling machine shops. :)
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So San Diego used to be a hot bed for the Aerospace industry so there are lots of machine shops that work with Titanium but most of the machine shops I talked to can turn the outside diameter of the axle but can't drill through the length of the axle. I found other machine shops that specialize in gun drilling so they can do that. So it looks like I will have the axles turned to shape at one shop then, after inspecting for accurate diameters and lengths, take them to a gun drill shop to have them finished. Depending on how smooth the drilling is one shop that does the drilling can also hone smooth the internal diameter to remove anything that could end in a stress fracture. I have spare stock axles coming from Ebay so I can make a good drawing for each and provide a sample to the machine shops. Once I receive the axles and do the drawings I will get quotes, purchase some stock of Grade 5 Titanium, and have one set of axles made, then I can post pictures and costs.
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Titanium for any part on the bike is kind of esoteric but there aren't many ways to lose a pound of unsprung weight on the newer CBR1000RRs. I have carbon fiber fenders, lighter rear brake rotor, and have lighter wheels coming.
Titanium rods for crank to piston is normal for high performance but axles is a bit over the top but then there is no such thing as over kill when it is your toy.
I will use machine shops that can do CNC so once they make the first one I can ask for quotes of greater quantities and see is there is a better volume cost. Guessing the numbers who really want a set will be small but we will see once we know the real cost.
You notice much braking performance difference with the lightweight rear rotor? I use mostly front brake anyway, but I like to have a solid rear brake too.

And even a shop that does it by hand will give a volume price break. I know a guy who does good work at good prices in the SD area (I think he's up in oceanside). You want his contact info? Again he does really quality work.
I noticed a slight reduction in braking power but that is fine as it occasionally had too much. I tend to use the front heavily also and that moves the weight forward and lightens the tail. I almost blow a corner when the ABS kicked in for a locking rear brake. Unfortunately the ABS releases ALL brakes slightly so surprize...

Yes I would like the contact info on the machine shop, Oceanside isn't far from here, the gun drill shop is in Van Nuys.
I had an axle turned up for the Ohlins RVP's to match the HRC triples for the other bike and the facility in EU that supplies a number of race teams that did the work said they wont do Ti axles for heavier bikes, so I got it done in the standard steel they do them.
The diameter of the center hole could be varied, thicker for greater strength. Once I get the spare axles and take measurements I will be able to determine thickness required. If the Axle is only 50% lighter rather than 43% of original then not a big deal but Aerospace industries does things like landing struts on airplanes with Titanium since it doesn't fracture a easily as steel alloys.

BTW, I see on EBay, I think it was, a set of Chromoly axles from Japan for $650, a bit too expensive for me.
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