Titanium bolt weight

17822 Views 288 Replies 22 Participants Last post by Rusa, 1 d ago

John Harris

Discussion Starter · Nov 5, 2020

Don't know if anyone is interested but I just received my Front caliper Titanium bolts and weighed them vs stock steel for a 17 SP. Titanium is 24 grams vs stock steel 33 grams. So a reduction of 44 grams or 1.5 oz. Not much but then I am going for corrosion resistance and shine (bling).
I will be receiving front and rear rotor bolts and sprocket nuts in Titanium and will post their weights.

Now if I can just get accurate weight of the stock SP rims with bearing only then I can decide if I want the Marchesini Magnesium wheels.

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Ces One

· #241 · 24 d ago

John Harris said:
Today I received a reply to my message to the machine shop, they do use Ra as the surface finish spec and the current pricing is using 0.8 Ra micrometers which is very smooth bearing surface. After measuring the wheel bearing internal diameters a third time I put a maximum diameter spec on the axles and swingarm pivot as well as a minimum diameter. Something interesting, the stock axles are far from round, measuring around the axle at different point shows about a .006" out of roundness.

Also I weighed the stock dog bone rear suspension link with the needle bearing and seals but without the through spacers, and it weighes 332.5 grams. So I drilled 5 holes through the bone starting in the center, worked up to 1/2" holes, then the next 2 holes out are 9/16", couldn't find my 5/8" bit to do the outer most holes larger. These are small enough to not compromise the strength much, the link is far stronger than it needs to be. That removed just over 3/4 of an ounce with its new weight at 310 grams. I will ride with it like this for a while then enlarge the holes.
And a pic:
View attachment 267447

@John Harris
Where did you find this dog bone please ?

John Harris

Discussion Starter · #242 · 24 d ago

Where, as position on the bike, rear suspension to lower shock mount.
Or, Where did I buy it, I looked on ebay and found some. For $15 a Texas cycle salvage yard shipped it to me. Having a spare I can experiment with the part while keeping the bike on the road, then a short time to install the part and back on the road again.

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #243 · 24 d ago (Edited)

Today I pulled the lower fairing and removed the original dog bone suspension link and put the ventilated one in with a titanium bolt. The original front link bolt was 67.5 grams, the titanium replacement is 30.5 grams so with the drilled bone and bolt and nut the weight loss is 70 grams. I should have guessed that drilling the dog bone wouldn't save much weight, after all it is aluminum.

I put the rear bolt in from the other side so I don't have to pull the muffler every freakin time I want to do anything with the suspension link.
And another pic:

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Ces One

· #244 · 22 d ago

John Harris said:
Today I pulled the lower fairing and removed the original dog bone suspension link and put the ventilated one in with a titanium bolt. The original front link bolt was 67.5 grams, the titanium replacement is 30.5 grams so with the drilled bone and bolt and nut the weight loss is 70 grams. I should have guessed that drilling the dog bone wouldn't save much weight, after all it is aluminum.
I put the rear bolt in from the other side so I don't have to pull the muffler every freakin time I want to do anything with the suspension link.
And another pic:
View attachment 267452

Apologies, I misunderstood what I was looking at with that picture of the dog bone. I had missed where you said you had drilled it out. That looks awesome John.
Nice work.

Ces One

· #245 · 22 d ago

John Harris said:
Where, as position on the bike, rear suspension to lower shock mount.
Or, Where did I buy it, I looked on ebay and found some. For $15 a Texas cycle salvage yard shipped it to me. Having a spare I can experiment with the part while keeping the bike on the road, then a short time to install the part and back on the road again.

I have an extra OEM dog bone as well:
It came with the SP2 swing arm I recently purchased.
Thanks again.

DannoXYZ

· #246 · 22 d ago (Edited)

For dogbones, I'm thinking significant weight-savings (over 50%), can be had by going to tubular titanium. Similar to old-style solid aluminium bicycle handlebar stems. Going to threadless tubular titanium saved significant weight.

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #247 · 21 d ago (Edited)

So I have this lower triple clamp that I damaged pressing it apart. After some thought I bought a small cylinder hone and honed out the damage on the stem area. So I would have to have a custom stem made to fit it so a titanium stem is still a consideration. It would be a one off and not useable on a stock lower clamp, but I keep thinking about 5 ounces savings and think it might be worth it. And I wanted to see what kind of weight loss was possible by profiling the lower clamp, removing all the forging flashing and making the clamp look more like a custom part than a mass manufactured one. The stock lower triple clamp weighed 845 grams with the profiling if now weighs 826.5 grams.
And some pics:

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Rcannon409

· #248 · 20 d ago

John, what do you use as a thread lubricant/anti sieze for your titanium fasteners?

John Harris

Discussion Starter · #249 · 20 d ago (Edited)

For most I use Locktite thread locker. If the part doesn’t need a thread locker I use a regular aluminum base anti-seize. For mission critical parts I use Boe-lube made by Boeing aircraft. I mentioned that somewhere back in this thread.

Ces One

· #250 · 20 d ago

@John Harris
Hi John, would it be possible to send you my extra OEM dog bone for you to drill it out, similar to what you’ve done with yours, please?
What could I offer you for that.
Thanks

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #251 · 20 d ago

Drilling is a piece of cake. I can drill, counter sink, sand finish and protective coat, no charge. PM me and I will give you an address, maybe put a $10 bill in the package for return shipping cost and we're good.

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Ces One

· #252 · 20 d ago

PM sent.
Thank you kindly sir.

noveske556

· #253 · 20 d ago

John Harris said:
Drilling is a piece of cake. I can drill, counter sink, sand finish and protective coat, no charge. PM me and I will give you an address, maybe put a $10 bill in the package for return shipping cost and we're good.

What type of coating do you use?

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #254 · 20 d ago (Edited)

For natural alumimun with a fine sanded finish I buy a product from Industrial Metal Supply made by Sculpt Nouveau called Clear Guard, but it will not stick to polished aluminum surfaces, for that I use Dupli-Color Wheel Gloss Clearcoat which you can buy at the Auto Parts store. The Clear Guard is very thin, very tough, nicely clear and dries fast, you see it on the dog bone above. The Wheel Clearcoat looks good but isn't as tough as the Clear Guard. Both come in a 12 ounce spray rattle can.

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #255 · 20 d ago

And a pic of the lower triple clamp after finishing and paint. Still need to take a rag with acetone and wipe the inner fork surfaces clean.

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Ces One

· #256 · 20 d ago (Edited)

Rcannon409 said:
John, what do you use as a thread lubricant/anti sieze for your titanium fasteners?

Pro Bolt USA, part of Pro Bolt UK, is a leading supplier of titanium hardware for motorcycle racing, and sends a packet of this anti-seize compound with most every order.
I learned different types of metal like to seize and fuse when threaded together.
I’d never heard of that. You obviously have.
🤦🏻😁
Here’s what they send and something similar I found at the local auto parts shop.
just in case it useful…
Cheers

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #257 · 19 d ago

Yeah, it is a matter of what type of metal you are screwing into a different type of metal. Steel sparkplug base into aluminum is a matter of heat and corrosion, so an anti-seize is warranted, no fun pulling the head for thread replacement. Now stainless steel into steel likes to gall, lockup, and snap, absolutely need an anti-seize compound. Threading steel, stainless steel, or titanium into aluminum or brass generally doesn't gall because of the lubricity of the aluminum and brass but it doesn't hurt to give it a little help with anti-seize or some liquid lubericant.

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noveske556

· #258 · 19 d ago

So titanium drain plugs in our oil pans should be fine? Regardless, I'll definitely add some anti-seize on my next oil change.

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John Harris

Discussion Starter · #259 · 19 d ago

There is definitely enough oil film on the threads from draining the oil that you don’t need to worry about an anti-seize compound. 😉

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Ces One

· #260 · 19 d ago

noveske556 said:
So titanium drain plugs in our oil pans should be fine? Regardless, I'll definitely add some anti-seize on my next oil change.

I’m running that exact setup, and as usual, I’m also running the anti-seize that came with the magnetic tip drain plug.

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