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2017 CBR1000RA ABS/OEM QS
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I wanted to buy a set of the Evotech Guards but Revzilla was out of stock when I placed my order. Were they pretty straight forward to install? How is the fitment?
On my RR-R they fit fine and weren’t difficult to install. Instructions actually wanted me to remove more stuff than I actually needed to. On my ‘17 RR I have the R&G guards. They were a straight forward install as well and fit fine.
 

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2009 CBR 1000RR Repsol Edition, Yoshimura R77 Full system, Power Commander MAP, Luimoto Seat
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Rizoma Foot Pegs. Spiegler Colored stainless front and rear brake lines.

The brake lines were the most noticeable performance upgrade compared to stock. The feel and sensitivity is amazing!
 

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Started Back on the Restoration Project again. Front cowl that I butchered for the Halo Lighting installed and pre wired. turn signal mirrors.
put the vent on the rear cowl (I HATE EM) Had to be assembled glued welded Blahhh Blahh!. New radiator and hoses, tested the fan an temp switch. missing some radiator mounting hardware. dont know what Im looking for yet as It wasnt there when I bought the wreck. (Search
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive lighting Motor vehicle
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle Hood
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting
ing). New sneaks now that I know its a runner.
Pics of the Beast, odds and ends of what Ive been up to with regards to my wrecks :)
Ride Safe.
 
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I was taking out the garbage and walked past her in the garage and sat on her in my boxers making brap brap noises. There’s no way I’m the only that does this….
Papper, the good news is there IS a cure for retardation! 🤣

Just fucking with you! Bro, OF COURSE we all do that kind of stuff!
 

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Today I filled her up with VP Racing Fuel C-10.
Boy oh boy does she like it! I only put Chevron Supreme in my bikes, but my 22 Honda CRF450R Works Edition requires race gas. Since it’s already in the garage, I put some VP in the CBR. She loves it! I

’ll add that my CBR is a 2022.
Depending on the year, your bike might need some kind of adjustment, tuning or mapping to be able to take a fuel like VP C-10.
Just a friendly word of caution. I’ve had expert professional race mechanics tell me that you can’t put race gas in any old dirt bike. For example.
They have to be mapped for it.
My dirtbike came from the factory mapped for it.
When I asked the service and parts department at my local Honda dealership about putting race gas in my CBR, they said it would be just fine. And they were right.

So go forward, go fast, but go cautiously!
 

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Installed T-Rex frame sliders, front axle sliders and a Scorpion GP slip on and removed the servo cables. Servo buddy is here, so I will be removing the servo motor completely.

Is it my idea, or is the bike SO MUCH BETTER in low RPMs without the flapper? To me, it does have more go on low RPMs, and I’m thinking the servo was hindering low RPM drivability and was there for sound reduction only.

Above all, the bike looks so much better and cleaner, and a few LBs off don’t hurt either.

Also changed the 2 year+ old oil that came in the new bike at 300mi to be on the safe side. Will still do another change after 600mi.



Also wrapped the rear hugger in red CF vinyl wrap. My 1st wrap ever, not perfect on some edges, but it looks good (obviously not in the pic).
That Scorpion looks sick !
 

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2017 CBR1000RA ABS/OEM QS
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Today I filled her up with VP Racing Fuel C-10.
Boy oh boy does she like it! I only put Chevron Supreme in my bikes, but my 22 Honda CRF450R Works Edition requires race gas. Since it’s already in the garage, I put some VP in the CBR. She loves it! I

’ll add that my CBR is a 2022.
Depending on the year, your bike might need some kind of adjustment, tuning or mapping to be able to take a fuel like VP C-10.
Just a friendly word of caution. I’ve had expert professional race mechanics tell me that you can’t put race gas in any old dirt bike. For example.
They have to be mapped for it.
My dirtbike came from the factory mapped for it.
When I asked the service and parts department at my local Honda dealership about putting race gas in my CBR, they said it would be just fine. And they were right.

So go forward, go fast, but go cautiously!
I would agree with the mechanic. I come from the race car realm and I'm finding out most race bike guys do as well. Putting higher octane fuel will do absolutely nothing to performance unless you have a map that supports it. Meaning, you could put in 110 octane and with a stock map, ignition timing and fuel tables it will not do anything for you performance wise. Higher octane just takes longer to detonate so essentially you can run a more aggressive map(ignition,timing,fuel ect) to take advantage of that. I try to tell people all the time, if your not tuned to support the octane, don't waste your money. Your new 22 CBR isn't tuned for race gas stock from Honda. The only way you should be putting race gas in that bike is if you have your ECU unrestricted and flashed. Even then, you wouldn't really utilize the full potential of race gas until you have a stage 3 setup on your bike. Stage 3 meaning, ram air restrictors removed, euro velocity stacks and either a mid pipe/cat delete or full exhaust system ( not just a slip-on). That's my humble opinion. Hope that helps you out brother!
 

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I run Cam2 in the CBR because I can buy it at the pump around the corner, there's no ethanol in it and it's half the cost of any other ethanol free fuel I can find. No matter how long the bike sits, it fires right up and purrs (and smells great!). The only "issue" so far has been the exhaust soot is white now not black.

For the very same reason, I tried it in my Hustler zero turn last year. Man, it ran SWEET... right up until the head seized. Oh well. Lesson learned, now it gets TruFuel. $55/2.1gal @ Home Depot. :rolleyes:
 

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I would agree with the mechanic. I come from the race car realm and I'm finding out most race bike guys do as well. Putting higher octane fuel will do absolutely nothing to performance unless you have a map that supports it. Meaning, you could put in 110 octane and with a stock map, ignition timing and fuel tables it will not do anything for you performance wise. Higher octane just takes longer to detonate so essentially you can run a more aggressive map(ignition,timing,fuel ect) to take advantage of that. I try to tell people all the time, if your not tuned to support the octane, don't waste your money. Your new 22 CBR isn't tuned for race gas stock from Honda. The only way you should be putting race gas in that bike is if you have your ECU unrestricted and flashed. Even then, you wouldn't really utilize the full potential of race gas until you have a stage 3 setup on your bike. Stage 3 meaning, ram air restrictors removed, euro velocity stacks and either a mid pipe/cat delete or full exhaust system ( not just a slip-on). That's my humble opinion. Hope that helps you out brother!
Yes it does, thank you. Interesting, I have most of those on my to do / might do list.
A cat delete / mid pipe. An ECU flash and air restrictions delete. I haven’t started studying velocity stacks yet, but I am aware of them, as well as air filter upgrades. Maybe it’s more correct to say, I love the VP fuel in the bike…. Haha. Very helpful and much appreciated 17Blades.
 

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I would agree with the mechanic. I come from the race car realm and I'm finding out most race bike guys do as well. Putting higher octane fuel will do absolutely nothing to performance unless you have a map that supports it. Meaning, you could put in 110 octane and with a stock map, ignition timing and fuel tables it will not do anything for you performance wise. Higher octane just takes longer to detonate so essentially you can run a more aggressive map(ignition,timing,fuel ect) to take advantage of that. I try to tell people all the time, if your not tuned to support the octane, don't waste your money. Your new 22 CBR isn't tuned for race gas stock from Honda. The only way you should be putting race gas in that bike is if you have your ECU unrestricted and flashed. Even then, you wouldn't really utilize the full potential of race gas until you have a stage 3 setup on your bike. Stage 3 meaning, ram air restrictors removed, euro velocity stacks and either a mid pipe/cat delete or full exhaust system ( not just a slip-on). That's my humble opinion. Hope that helps you out brother!
17Blades, is there a thread, or any other info on removing the air restrictions on a SC77 please? YouTube, or from you directly. You sound very knowledgeable.
Any info would be much appreciated, thank you very much.
 

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17Blades, is there a thread, or any other info on removing the air restrictions on a SC77 please? YouTube, or from you directly. You sound very knowledgeable.
Any info would be much appreciated, thank you very much.
Thanks brother! I am always trying to learn as much as I can, as I am always learning.

There is a thread in the mod it good section of the forum for the SC-77 on how to remove the ram air restrictors. He did it by removing the front and middle cowl. I personally went through my air box to get to them because I had to upgrade my velocity stacks anyway and I feel that is the best way to get to them, through the air box. Funny you mentioned this as I just did this 2 days ago a long some other stuff! Lol

I have a 2017 but I think the 2022 is still the same. Most of the bolts are 3mm - 5mm Hex Bolts and Phillips screws on the air box.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, TAKE PICTURES OF EACH STEP BEFORE YOU DISASSEMBLE YOU WILL THANK ME LATER!

1. Remove your seat 2 x 5mm bolts

2. Remove your fuel tank cover 4 x 5mm bolts

3. Release the breather tube and over flow tube from the tank spout so the tank can swivel up. There are 2 x 5mm bolts one on each side of the front of the tank. Unscrew them and your tank should pivot on the hinges. You can use a big screwdriver to prop your tank up so you don't have to take the tank off completely, just wrap the screwdriver in a towel so your bike doesn't get scratched up. So lift the tank up and on the left side by the frame you can stick it in horizontally to prop it up so it wedges in between the bottom of the fuel tank and your frame.

4. Take off the air cleaner cloth from the tabs. Do it carefully so you don't rip the cloth tabs.
Disconnect all the harnesses to the ECU and the other harnesses. There is about 9 total. There are 2 Phillips screws, one on each side of the ECU take them out. The plastic ECU cradle will be free set the ECU on the side.

5. There are 8 phillips screws that fasten the air box, remove them. 2 of the 8 screws will stay in the air box housing. I personally don't think you need to take the air box housing off completely, you can fold it back far enough to take the air filter out. If you want to take your upper air box housing completely off, you need to disconnect the fuel quick connect fitting that goes to the upper rail of injectors. A few Phillips screws secure the air filter down and there is a metal tab in the center near the velocity stacks that holds it down, do not lose that tab. Pull your air filter out, now is a good time to clean it since it's out. Soft toothbrush to loosen up particles stuck in between the pleates and a vacuum nozzle. I also wiped down and cleaned my air box since I was in there.

6. You can remove the ram air restrictors by pulling on the side where the rubber is thinner and that thinner side starts releasing from the glue easier than the other side I noticed. Look at the pics I posted below. When you pull do it really slow so you can get as much glue out as possible. Once they are out pick all the glue out of the crevices with a plastic tool or your fingers. It's like rubber cement almost. Then, apply alcohol liberally on a towel and wipe the areas that had glue all the way around on both sides. Just reverse the steps to put your bike back together. I hope this helped you out brother!
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