Still nice to have my stock read as known "truth data".
By never worked as anticipated do you mean doesn't work at all?
Still nice to have my stock read as known "truth data".That read you took is really for Woolich benefit, not yours. Its how they harvest unknown ECUs from the field. You read it and then if they don't already have it in the library its sent off to Australia to be deciphered.
If you restore your ECU to stock, you'll get the stock bin file that is already in the Woolich library.
With regard to the TC vs WC table, its never worked as anticipated.
OK thanks that makes sense. All I know is 26 across the board worked like ass. Now I set WC 1 to zeros everywhere because I want TC without WC at least for some of my riding modes. Will give it a try and see how it goes.You are comparing the 2017/18 data (D43/L13) to 2019 data. (DK2/LG2)
2019 ECU uses different code base for the logic and controlling the functionality.
Have fun but be careful, the data means different things to different ECUs![]()
Use the compare bin file feature. It's much easier and faster than what you did.Last night I took the stock bin file and unrestricted the top speed and set the fan turn on lower and saved to a new bin name, then finished comparing bin files. I figured I would use the Euro ETV tables but I only wanted it for P1 mode so this morning I had to copy and paste from each gear and the three engine braking tables so: load Euro File, go to EVT table gear and EB, highlight and copy, open new name bin file, go to EVT table, get to same gear and EB, paste, save the file, rinse, repeat 18 times. There might be an easier way when you only want a small part of another bin file but haven't found it yet.
Then out to the garage, and setup and carefully followed the software to write the ECU. It took two minutes to write, then the software had me turn off the ignition then back on and it did some initialization for 10 minutes then it was done and power off the bike, back on and start it up. Seems to run the same, as it should. Now have to go for a ride to see if I can feel the difference.
Have a good one.
Now you tell meUse the compare bin file feature. It's much easier and faster than what you did.
Steps are:
1. Open bin file you want to modify
2. Select "Compare bin file" and select the bin file you want to copy parameters from
3. Go to each table, and select the "value trim" option
4. Highlight all cells and select "Set value". Set to 0.
Now you have set the difference of the two bin files to zero.
There are some changes at the lower revs especially in certain gears (1st,2nd, 5th, and 6th).I took my bike for a ride at lunch today. You are right about having to hold the bike in the gear until the revs top out since the changes to the throttle valve opening is only at the highest revs. I can feel a little bit of extra power on top but the bike already has so much power I am not sure how useful more power is.I mean, holding it open in first gear and by the time the rpms peak and you have to have to pull second gear you are already over most legal speed limits in the US.
It would be a definite advantage on a track. And I never could understand restricting power in P1 mode so it is a worth while mod.
Ya know I never looked at the mph in first... I'm usually too busy concentrating on keeping the front end down, hitting my shift, etc. BUT I took a video today so that I could focus on the road... check the video laterI think my bike tops out at 65 to 70 mph in first but only glancing at the speedo while concentrating on where I am aimed and what's around.
I do like the close ratio gearbox though, had a bike a long time ago with wide ratio box and it made the bike a poor ride.
Do you have any engine mods so far?
I will probably leave my engine alone except for the air filter. I have the Sprint Air filter which I will install when it is time to swap out the air filter but for street use it will have a layer of filter foam in front of it. The combo will only flow a hair better than the stock filter, if you believe the marketing data, but it will be cleanable so you only buy once. Still waiting on the new wheels, supposed to be the biggest change you can make to a bike, though the stock wheels are pretty good.
Thank you for replying RC45. It's funny you mention, I did reach out to Woolich and there reply was more or less: "we just expose the tables, it's up to you to figure out how/if they work". I suppose that's a fair response but when the website lists all these tables that can be customized, but some of them do not appear to work, I think that is misleading.None of these features withing the Woolich software will work as you might intend to use them as they only represent a small percentage of the data that is consulted by the Honda Selectable Torque Management System when it makes real time decisions. And absent the rest of the tables and proper documentation you will just be guessing.
Even if you reach out to Woolich you'll notice they can offer no guidance as they don't know what these tables of data represent in the context of the Honda Torque Management system. They have done no testing of the data they exposed.
The testing we did really just highlighted this fact.
This is a bug I discovered and Woolich patches by January 2020.I guess traction control would be my main concern in regards to tuning the ecu. My local tuner does great work and I see lots of his customers with great results. I’ve heard on here in the past (rc45 I think), that woolich was disabling the TC setting, basically making it nonfunctional, with there first tunes or data files. How do I prevent this, if even possible?
Thanks for the clarification. What are you currently using RC?This is a bug I discovered and Woolich patches by January 2020.
Any tune created using Woolich after that date will not have that bug (here’s hoping, I stopped using and testing Woolich functionality in March’s 2020)
I have the same issue, I've contacted Wooich and they gave me some caned response and refused to help. I have also noticed that the cut-off are really harsh. I was able accelerate really hard in first and keep the front from going any higher than maybe a foot off the ground. Now, when I do that that (even though there is suppose to be 0 intervention, it cuts out harshly. Its also very random. Sometimes it will let me keep it going for like 1-2 second before it cuts, and sometimes it cuts out immediately.Today I successfully read and wrote to my ECU. It took some difficulty getting the USB K V3 device to connect but once that was sorted all went well.
The flash feels great, lots of power, BUT, I have one major issue: The wheelie control vs TC level setting DID NOT WORK. The first time I gave it gas in 1st the front end rose a bit but then BAM! The TC/WC light flashed and the bike brought the front end down QUICK. Much harsher than usual/pre flash. Later in the ride I tried 2nd gear thinking maybe the bike thought the tire slipped the first time and that's why the bike brought it down but NOPE, it did the same thing. And keep in mind these are smooth roll on power wheelies not clutch-ups
Screenshot attached of my settings. I had T set to 1 or 0 the whole ride. Thanks.
View attachment 261701
My backup plan is to just set WC1 to all zeros (Like WC0). That will have a close enough effect to what I want to do...