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08 Upper Cowl Removal

68K views 47 replies 36 participants last post by  suth101  
#1 ·
Since this was requested and no one has posted a write-up yet, I decided I would. This doesn't take that long, as long as you are pretty good at removing the mid-cowls/side fairings. After you remove them a few times, it's not that hard.

I have also listed torque values. If I missed any, someone please add them in.

1. Remove the mid-cowls/side fairings and upper inner covers-see this thread:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46051&highlight=ram+air

2. Remove rearview mirrors (pictures below are for the right side-procedure is the same for the left side)
Pull down rubber/plastic boot (located between the upper cowl and upper stay behind the nuts) and disconnect the 2 connectors (red arrows)
Image


Unbolt 2 10mm nuts-red arrows pointing to them (7 ft/lbs)
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3. Remove windscreen
Remove 4 3mm bolts (1.1 ft/lbs) shown by red arrows
Image

There are 2 tabs at the front of the cowl that go to the 2 front grommets in the stock windscreen that you will need to slide the windscreen off of. Or you can just break those 2 tabs off when you pull off the stock windscreen to replace it like I did. Don't know about other aftermarket windscreens, but the Puig I have doesn't even have those front 2 grommets, so I didn't care if I broke them or not.

4. Disconnect sub harness 20P and 8P connectors-red arrows (left side of bike)
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5. Disconnect vacuum hose from one-way valve
That's the ugly brownish-gray hose in the previous picture. Just yank it off from the one-way valve under the upper cowl

6. Remove upper cowl from frame grommets-pull the upper cowl forward
The next 2 connectors are the only thing holding the upper cowl to the bike now

7. Disconnect the horn connectors and the combination meter connector (tachometer/speedometer connector)-red arrows (the combination meter connector is already disconnected in this picture-it's covered with a boot which is the blurry thing in the foreground of the picture
Image


Installation is the reverse of removal.
Hope this helps.
 
#3 ·
I would just like to add that the reversal process is somewhat a little bit more important.

put the windscreen back in and tighten it up hand tight before you put the mirrors on and tighten them up as the mirrors pull the top cowl in to stop it flexing too much, if you try and put the screen afterwards you may end up breaking the top legs of the fairing.

Also do not over tighten the mirrors or they will crack the fairing where the mirrors mount (this was done to mine before I bought it, because they didnt realise how the cowl supports itself).

Russ
 
#10 ·
Both the headlight relay and the turn signal relay are on behind the upper cowl. The headlight relay is on the left side and the turn signal/flasher relay is on the right side. So you will have to remove the upper cowl to get to them.
 
#13 · (Edited)
A Different Way

Sorry no pics.

I wanted to have upper cowling painted and removed it another way. This way does not require the removal of the mid-cowls/side fairings and upper inner covers.

1. Fish the turn signal connectors out of the little access holes in the faring and disconnect them.

2. Remove the allen bolt on the inner trim panel at the base of the upper on each side.

3. Remove the allen bolts that hold the windscreen on. This is probably not necessary, but it makes it easier to get things apart without breaking the tabs at the base of the windscreen.

3. Remove the pop fastener under the nose of the fairing.

4. Remove the nuts that hold the mirrors on.

5. Pull the turn signal/mirrors off.

6. Pull the tube off the evap canister.

7. Remove the two screws which attach the tipover sensor to the upper fairing.

8. There are 5 screws which attach the upper fairing to the headlight unit. There are two screws on the lower backside corners of the headlight unit, two screws are in upper middle to the center of the backside of the left and right side headlights and the last screw is up underneath the and between the nose of the headlights. Remove these and the upper fairing is free to be removed.

Using this approach, all the electrical components underneath are accessible, but still connected. The headlight unit can be put back on the bike with the plastic bayonets on the back fitting it the grommets on the upper fairing stay. At this time, it makes sense to carefully look at and familiarize yourself with how to fit the tabs of the headlight unit trim back into the upper fairing cowls.

To reinstall, reverse the procedure, being careful to properly fit the tabs of the headlight unit trim back in the upper fairing cowls after the fairing is completely reattached to the headlight unit and the turn signal wiring is reconnected. After the tabs are fit, wiggle the fairing and apply pressure to the headlights to get the upper fairing to pop over the mirror mounts. If the nose of the windscreen isn't flush with the fairing, pull back on the back top edge of it and it should pop up flush.

Now that I've done this twice, I can pull the upper fairing off or reinstall it in about 15 minutes.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I have just changed the upper cowl on my 2008 CBR1000. I really want to thank h82loze and ray916mn for their contributions to this thread. Without their insight this would have been impossible. I do have some suggestions and photos to add. The change was done without removing any other fairings as Ray916MN suggested.

Sorry no pics.

I wanted to have upper cowling painted and removed it another way. This way does not require the removal of the mid-cowls/side fairings and upper inner covers.

1. Fish the turn signal connectors out of the little access holes in the faring and disconnect them.

2. Remove the allen bolt on the inner trim panel at the base of the upper on each side.

3. Remove the allen bolts that hold the windscreen on. This is probably not necessary, but it makes it easier to get things apart without breaking the tabs at the base of the windscreen.

3. Remove the pop fastener under the nose of the fairing.

4. Remove the nuts that hold the mirrors on.

5. Pull the turn signal/mirrors off.

6. Pull the tube off the evap canister..
At this point the entire upper cowl and headlight assembly can be pulled away from the bike. Just wiggle it free. There are 2 peices of velco tape holding it on yet. You can easily see the tape. Photo 1 shows the assembly pulled away from the bike. You can now unscrew the upper cowl from the headlight assembly. The headlight assembly stays wired to the bike during this change. The headlight assembly only gets pulled out about 4 to 6 inches.

7. Remove the two screws which attach the tipover sensor to the upper fairing..
The tipover sensor is in the center of the cowl, as the base of the middle of the windshield. It can be seen in the photo and is attached by 2 shiney metal screws. In photo 2 you can see the tipover sensor. Its the square box.

8. There are 5 screws which attach the upper fairing to the headlight unit. There are two screws on the lower backside corners of the headlight unit, two screws are in upper middle to the center of the backside of the left and right side headlights and the last screw is up underneath the and between the nose of the headlights. Remove these and the upper fairing is free to be removed..
The 3rd photo shows all screw mounting points on the cowl. Of the 4 mounting points in a row, the 2 center holes are where the tipover sensor is attached. The screw referred to as the one up underneath and between the nose of the headlight can be seen at the top middle of the photo. It looks like a black dot in the picture.



Using this approach, all the electrical components underneath are accessible, but still connected. The headlight unit can be put back on the bike with the plastic bayonets on the back fitting it the grommets on the upper fairing stay. At this time, it makes sense to carefully look at and familiarize yourself with how to fit the tabs of the headlight unit trim back into the upper fairing cowls.

To reinstall, reverse the procedure, being careful to properly fit the tabs of the headlight unit trim back in the upper fairing cowls after the fairing is completely reattached to the headlight unit and the turn signal wiring is reconnected. After the tabs are fit, wiggle the fairing and apply pressure to the headlights to get the upper fairing to pop over the mirror mounts. If the nose of the windscreen isn't flush with the fairing, pull back on the back top edge of it and it should pop up flush.

Now that I've done this twice, I can pull the upper fairing off or reinstall it in about 15 minutes.
Just take your time as you go. It took me a bit more than 15 minutes, but it turned out well.
 

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#16 ·
You mean besides Ray916MN 2 posts above yours?
 
#17 ·
Yes, h82loze. That is exactly what I mean. Can you verify that the upper cowl can be removed as RAY196 stated 4 posts earlier. The Honda manual states the lowers must be removed. Your expertise would be appreciated.

I have searched the boards for info on removing the upper cowl. This is the only post I have found that states the upper cowl on an 08 CBR 1000 can be done without removing the lowers. If you have found this information stated in another post, please quote that. Sorry I missed it

Thanks

also, thanks for passing on the info for newbies
 
#21 ·
Great write-up Ray/mdmiller, just taken my headlight out ready to put some projectors in took @ 20mins. Lost a bit of skin getting connectors split but on the whole not too hard to do. :thumbsup:
 
#22 ·
I did remove the middle cowls to replace the upper, now I'm having trouble installing the middles. The upper cowl/h-l capsule is installed, but when I insert the air cleaner duct<left side> the front edge of the mid.cowl lines up on the outside of the upper cowl, but he attaching bolt hole is inside. Do the mid. cowls have to be installed before the upper? Any ideas?
 
#26 · (Edited)
In step five it says "disconnect the vaccum hose" ... i did the pair mod and I don't think I need this vacuum hose anymore and now I can figure out where it goes.

Can it be blocked off? Was it just for the PAIR system?

Great write up ... Thanks!!!!
 

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#27 ·
No, it is for the intake flappers. If you have done the intake flapper mod, then you will be able to just block it off/remove it. If you decide to do the intake flapper mod, you can trace that hose to the engine, cut it, and block it off there so you don't ever have to worry about it again.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I was hoping I wouldn't need this. But shit did indeed happen!

I had my bike in for it's 600mi service on Sat. Riding back on an old 2 lane highway a truck with hay bales was in the oncoming lane. As I rode past I felt a thump on my helmet. Not thinking anything of it I continued on my way home.

At home I found a large V shaped chip in the front fairing that wasn't there before or after the service.
It's right through the red paint and into the black. MFSOB!