Honda CBR 1000RR Forums banner

Chain Lube Recomendations

46K views 117 replies 68 participants last post by  MBZuki  
#1 ·
Does anyone know of a brand of chain lube that wont make the rims real dirty?
 
#25 ·
:thumbsup: +1 on the Wurth High Performance Chain Lube.

For it to work it needs to be applied to a TOTALLY CLEAN, GREASE FREE chain and sprockets. If there is any form of old lube or grease on the chain it won't stick and will just fling off on the first ride.

If, however, it is applied to a clean chain and given a few hours to dry, it works brilliantly with minimal fling off, and the little bit that does fling off can be wiped off with a rag easily.

From now on it will always be my chain lube of choice for my summer bike (the Blade). On the winter bike I swear by the Scottoilers.

GP
 
#11 ·
I've been using the Motorex chain cleaner and lube. The lube is pretty messy, but that cleaner is amazing. I'm talking a steady stream of black gunk running down the driveway, even when the chain looks pretty clean.

Found it at the Honda dealer.
 
#15 ·
OMG no! Now the penetrating oil is going to get into the lube in your o-rings and cause premature chain death!!! WHAT ARE YOU THINKING!

BTW, I have used WD-40 for years! The only time that I have not gotten over 25,000 miles on a set of chain and sprockets was when I bought Vortex (insert list of curse words here) sprockets.

I used to use the Dupont Teflon spray, but due to my commute I was cleaning my chain daily so I didn't see the need. Now that I have a much shorter commute, I am going to swing by Lowe's and pick some up. I never had problems with it flinging off once dry.
 
#20 ·
My commute was 156 miles a day. I know it is recommended to clean your chain every 500 miles; however, I am a creature of habit. It took me under 5 minutes a day to clean my chain and I did it soon as I parked the bike in the garage. My chain was always clean, looked good, and lasted a long time.

Dirt is the enemy of your chain. Dirt is the devil. Cleanliness is next to godliness... LMAO :th_SmlyROFL:
 
#21 ·
I use WD40 to clean and Dupont to lube...
 
#24 ·
I wouldn't advise someone to lube a metal on metal extremely fast moving drive train with vegetable oil or anything less than gear oil or chain lube. The ideal is to keep the lube on he chain not get thrown off as soon as it's warm or the machine is moving.
 
#26 ·
Sorry for the noob question but for the guys that use Dupont, which kind do you use?
Is it the Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant or the Chain-Saver Lubricant?
I want to remove my Chain guard but the chain lube I have now makes a mess.
I would like one that doesn't splash everywhere.
 
#28 ·
I am also one of the WD40 users... simply spray it onto a clean rag and grab/wrap it as to run the (preferably still warm) chain through it (obviously by hand so as to keep your fingers attached)... I do this after every track day.

If I ran through water or for Winter storage I follow up with a good lube (usually the teflon, silicon or dry graphite type). Never had a chain failure or premature wear.
 
#29 ·
It's new chain time. i haven't used any lube consitantly enough to even weigh in. Usually just using what the bike shop had on the shelf with no brand or type loyalty.

Looks like i'm gonna give wd40 the job on the new chain and see how she stacks up against my past mixed bag of lubricants.
 
#37 ·
I used to use PJ1 but I found it got my chain dirty pretty quickly and it left grease spots on the rim and elsewhere, even after wiping the chain with a rag after applying. Last year I switched to the DuPont Teflon lube that I found at Lowe's. No more fling and my chain stays cleaner a lot longer.

I still have an almost full can of PJ1. It's a decent lube except for the dirty residue. I use it on my bicycle chains.

Image
 
#38 ·
Why do you lube it warm/hot? I thought it would be better done cold as the metal expands when hot and closes the gap between the links and side plates which tightens up against the oring therefore defeating the purpose of adding lubricant as it wont get into the links. Also actual chain lube has a low viscousity while cold and thickens up as it heats up to serve the purpose that you apply it cold so it spreads into the links but doesnt fling off as it heats up as it gets thicker. Also the expanding plates tightens up against the orings and keeps the lube in the links.

Or i could just be totally wrong.. Lol
 
#39 ·
Or i could just be totally wrong.. Lol
Some chain lubes direction tell you to apply on a warm chain and some tell you cold chain. I just always assumed that they know how to best use the lube that they sell.