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well, checked last night and found the pc was hooked in at the battery, and lit up when the ignition was turned on. I've been chatting back and forth with a guru on the introductions forum and looks like I will be tearing into the bike tonight to check connections, which is okay because I need to change my plugs anyways. I've just been procrastinating that headache...lol That may be my issue too, they are over 1000 miles past the point the manual says to change them. I just think it odd that this started right after I got my bike back from the dealership for the stator recall.... boneheads... I can`t stand other people working on my bike, but it was the only way it would be covered.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I doubt that plugs are your issue. Sounds like you had the same problem I had. My PCIII lit up as well...even when it wasn't grounded. Sounds to me like you have a bad ground. Either the PCIII itself, or the chassis ground to the battery. First thing to check, being so easy....and the likely culprit.

well, checked last night and found the pc was hooked in at the battery, and lit up when the ignition was turned on. I've been chatting back and forth with a guru on the introductions forum and looks like I will be tearing into the bike tonight to check connections, which is okay because I need to change my plugs anyways. I've just been procrastinating that headache...lol That may be my issue too, they are over 1000 miles past the point the manual says to change them. I just think it odd that this started right after I got my bike back from the dealership for the stator recall.... boneheads... I can`t stand other people working on my bike, but it was the only way it would be covered.
 
I`ll definitely check it again, I really hope its something I can eventually find and correct myself. I was also told by a kat I occasionally ride with that my fuel pump may be at fault due to ethonal, age of my bike (05), and mileage (36,550 as of today). what are your thoughts ?
 
Hey buddy, I've followed all leads. Checked all grounds(even added my own). Ran factory computer minus powercommander, cleaned, grapped, changed plugs. Nothing helped to this day. Guess I'll go with a new pump. If you do it first, post your results. It would be nice to share cost on this fix.lol
 
Hey buddy, I've followed all leads. Checked all grounds(even added my own). Ran factory computer minus powercommander, cleaned, grapped, changed plugs. Nothing helped to this day. Guess I'll go with a new pump. If you do it first, post your results. It would be nice to share cost on this fix.lol
iam at the same work.checking wire,coils,plugs,etc. saw in other thread that a dealer found two damaged lower injectors. wonders why? if the problem is over 7k rpms how replacing two lower injectors solved te problem
 
I don't understand that either. My primaries are fine, the bike is spot on in the lower revs, but when it comes time for the secondaries to kick in it falls flat on its face at wot. I can get painfully slow acceleration if I hold the throttle at 60%, but I get frustrated and let off pretty quick. The t.b.s are open and plenty of air is flowing, just no fuel going with it.
 
I don't understand that either. My primaries are fine, the bike is spot on in the lower revs, but when it comes time for the secondaries to kick in it falls flat on its face at wot. I can get painfully slow acceleration if I hold the throttle at 60%, but I get frustrated and let off pretty quick. The t.b.s are open and plenty of air is flowing, just no fuel going with it.
exactly the same problem on my cbr. i already have the plugs out.bad shape by the way.the fail is not on a single coil,plug or injector.like you said all of them goes out like no fuel at all or no spark.in the week ill be checking all the related connector plugs.will let you know what i find
 
Loose coils...... I guess it wouldn't hurt to look into, God knows I've tried everything else aside from taking the 300 hit for a new pump. My bike revs all the way to redline with the clutch in, only stumbles when under load. If it was vibration, wouldn't the issue still happen (maybe even worse) without the transmission taking some of the chaos ?
 
Loose coils...... I guess it wouldn't hurt to look into, God knows I've tried everything else aside from taking the 300 hit for a new pump. My bike revs all the way to redline with the clutch in, only stumbles when under load. If it was vibration, wouldn't the issue still happen (maybe even worse) without the transmission taking some of the chaos ?
i already checked the coils grip at the plugs. its strong but noticed its a little bit dry with some corrosion color at the coils grip.ill put some dielectric grease when installing new plugs
 
new plugs,dielectric grease on the coils grip,also on any related electric plugs ie. coil harness,ground etc. also did by pass the stand switch. did a short test 1,2 gear at 8k rpms.problem not present.will make another test tomorrow on 3,4 gear over 8k rpms. noticed the speedo has a rev light that turns on at 8k rpms. is that normal? can be adjusted? red line is at 11k rpms
 
Why the side stand switch ? Just curious.
was a reading a thread for other site where a technician answer inquiries. he adviced to check the stand switch cause sometimes it drops from vibration causing an intermitent cut tested the bike todaybut no luck.problem still.just like yours.revs up nice in neutral or clutch engaged but cuts off at 8k rpms on running gears. i wonders if there's a relay for rpms redline control on our 1000rr.on the weekend ill be by passing the angle bank sensor. bike suffered a a small crash before the problem started. chances are the sensor could be partially broke
 
What kind of damage did the bike take ? I've never heard of a bas cutting at a specific rpm range. I believe it's either power or no power if that sensor goes out. But hey, I'm tapped for ideas so if you're in there, why not ? My issue began after I took it to the dealer for the stator recall. After I got it back and I noticed the problem, I double checked all the connections they would've made and it was a few simple plugs. They were tight. I hated letting someone else under my bikes dress, but it's the only way they would warranty it. I found some things that had me irate, but that's a side note.
So we've both changed plugs, checked connections acceptable while in that area, our fuel strainers in the tanks are clean, our grounds are good, no FI light, all grounds are good, air filters are clean,( I also have done the PAIR mod, flapper removal, removed exhaust cables, pc3) also have a new regulator. My side stand switch is good as well. Are we on common ground so far ?
 
What kind of damage did the bike take ? I've never heard of a bas cutting at a specific rpm range. I believe it's either power or no power if that sensor goes out. But hey, I'm tapped for ideas so if you're in there, why not ? My issue began after I took it to the dealer for the stator recall. After I got it back and I noticed the problem, I double checked all the connections they would've made and it was a few simple plugs. They were tight. I hated letting someone else under my bikes dress, but it's the only way they would warranty it. I found some things that had me irate, but that's a side note.
So we've both changed plugs, checked connections acceptable while in that area, our fuel strainers in the tanks are clean, our grounds are good, no FI light, all grounds are good, air filters are clean,( I also have done the PAIR mod, flapper removal, removed exhaust cables, pc3) also have a new regulator. My side stand switch is good as well. Are we on common ground so far ?
yes. we are common ground but no power commander on my cbr. i think the stator recall has not been made on my bike. am thinking on the relays.the ones at the box on the left side fairing at the front. theres 4 of them. is theres any way to see what circuit or what they do? also the bike suffered low speed on track day. been told after that, symptoms appeared.am thinking on the bank angle sensor.tomorrow will do a by pass on it and try
 
Dug out the service book for that one..... The relays listed are headlight, fan control, engine stop, and fuel pump. Also got into the self diagnostic port and showed a intake air temp sensor fault. Checked continuity on the sensor and got nothing. The manual says I need between 1 and 4 ohms. I wonder if that might come into play ?
 
Dug out the service book for that one..... The relays listed are headlight, fan control, engine stop, and fuel pump. Also got into the self diagnostic port and showed a intake air temp sensor fault. Checked continuity on the sensor and got nothing. The manual says I need between 1 and 4 ohms. I wonder if that might come into play ?[/QU the self diagnostic port is the some like yellow one? i did a thread to seek help on our same problem.other member sugested the bike could be on limp mode.dont know what it means so i searched the forum. it seems like once you remove the servomotor on exhaust the bike sets to service(limp mode) mode in order to get a proper air/fuel ratio for the new flowing exhaust changes.
 
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