Honda CBR 1000RR Forums banner

621 - 635 of 635 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
601 Posts
If you properly remove everything there is only one hose to plug, the one coming from the engine that provide the vacuum that operates the flappers in the first place. Cut out plastic circles and glue them in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
If you properly remove everything there is only one hose to plug, the one coming from the engine that provide the vacuum that operates the flappers in the first place. Cut out plastic circles and glue them in place.
The hole that's coming from the right side correct? Also does that affect anything if I block that off the engine?

Thank you for the respond.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
601 Posts
If you follow the vacuum hose, it goes back to where the throttle bodies are. You plug it. Also to reference the proper side of the bike, they're based on "you sitting on the bike". So that would be the left side that the hose you plug is on. You have to plug it if you're doing the flapper mod. Also if you're are not removing the flapper doors, DONT plug the line. Some people think if they just plug the vacuum line they did a short cut flapper mod, but with the line plugged and the door still in place, the doors stay closed, not open. So either remove the doors and door springs which is a short cut flapper mod and call it quits. Or dont do anything at all, leave as Honda had it or remove everything and plug vacuum line. No it dont affect the engine if you block that vacuum line...........as long as the flapper door are removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
When I look down my ram air tubes I cant see the springs. Does this mean somebody has done the flapper mod to my bike?

But thinking about it and seeing a photo of the plumbing for them. Wouldnt it be easier to just join the vac hoses together and bypass the solenoid? That way ever there is vacuum they are open. You wont get a code as the solenoid is still there.

Or am I missing something?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hello, for a racing Bike its ok to take all the flapper/ valves out but..
You need to know that the bike respond a little different because the afr its not probably the same..
Benefits of Combo on Flapper(intake, IDC Valve)/ Exhaust (ECV Valve) are less engine braking and a tone of sound
For the exhaust valve you take the screws and cover down, than disconnect cable from servo.

As for air flapper:
For the 2008 and up you cant only disconnect the vacuum lines! The Flapp goes open when vacuum pump is on and that happens when the ecu says
So i doit other way, i dont see it on internet.. When you look at the wiring diagram on the Ecu connectors.. The Grey one! It has 3 Lines with each 11 Pins/Cables
The upper Line, 3. Pin (Yellow/Black) and 6. Pin (Yellow/Blue) its only need to ground!

I make it in 15mins, security pin cutt off, need only the ring and needle tip, take cable trough the ring, twist it a bit and shrink tube over.. Two of these on same Cable in distance of the pins..
For the space you only need to bend 90 degrees the needles tip of approximately 1cm (0.393701 inch :)) and push it in pins cable coat just befor its going in the plug and ground the other end

The Flapps are staying open..

Cheers
 

·
JC
Joined
·
31 Posts
Good write up. Just did this in less than 10 minutes. Helps that my bike is completely stripped awaiting new fairings! Thanks guys!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hoops_UK

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi

This sounds like exactly the mid I need to do on my RR8 which I've just converted to a track bike. As I've fitted carbon air tubes, I believe I need to:

1) Disconnect all the air hoses for the flapper valve system. My plan is to leave about 2" where these connect in to the engine and then plug the end of my 2" hose with silicon to seal it.
2) Connect some of the wiring to ground. I'm using a spare front loom I bought off eBay for £30. The loom is fine, but the previous owner has disconnected the flapper valve wires and just left them taped up within the loom. There is a yellow wire and a white wire for each side, but how do I ground these? Is one of these wires a ground or do I need to ground into one of the other green wires within the loom? What connectors / bits are best to use when tweaking the loom in this way?

Would be great to get some further detail - at the moment my engine is not running smoothly and the ECU light flashes twice every 2-3 seconds which I assume is indicating this error as everything else should be stock.

Thanks guys!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Hi boys. I have a one question, my bike is Honda CBR1000RR 2011 and i want instal funnel from CBR1000RR 2016..
My funnel on the picture in left
I buy funnel on the picture in right

I would like to know what the result of the change will be?

Is it better for the bike?

Thank you verry much.
Ivailo.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I was changing fairings this weekend, so I decided to do the intake flapper mod as well.
Easy enough when the fairings are apart.

I removed everything at first, but the decided to remount the 2 airduct resonators as the front airductcover fixes in these mount holes.
They're not connected though, RAM duct has top and bottom holes closed off.

For everybody asking, you only plug one hose, the one coming from the engine. A screw that fits and a tie-wrap will do. All the other hoses are removed.
 

·
#Vietnam
Joined
·
105 Posts
Anyone do this on 12-16 models? I was removing my pair system when I noticed all the lines and solenoid on the intake tubes... Wish I saw this thread before I put everything back together and dropped the bike off at the tuners...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Which hose is the one you need to put a screw on ? If you sitting on the bike is it the left where the clutch lever is or the right where thorttle tube is at ? I put a screw on the right side where throttle is at and iddle is fine but if i take the screw out it has a hard time to start and iddle comes down i was reading some comments and some said the left side where clutch lever is at i put a screw on both of them but if i put a screw on the left side iddle comes down also and if i leave it open iddle comes up (screw on the right hose and open on the left hose)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Which hose is the one you need to put a screw on ? If you sitting on the bike is it the left where the clutch lever is or the right where thorttle tube is at ? I put a screw on the right side where throttle is at and iddle is fine but if i take the screw out it has a hard time to start and iddle comes down i was reading some comments and some said the left side where clutch lever is at i put a screw on both of them but if i put a screw on the left side iddle comes down also and if i leave it open iddle comes up (screw on the right hose and open on the left hose)
Hose on the left. To check, confirm that it traces back to the first cylinder (left with you on bike). If you have the bike apart you can unplug that hose and put a vacuum plug directly on the throttle body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hose on the left. To check, confirm that it traces back to the first cylinder (left with you on bike). If you have the bike apart you can unplug that hose and put a vacuum plug directly on the throttle body.
Ok, so the right hose (with me on the bike) if i take the plug out of the hose the bike iddling goes down like if its going to turn off and if i plug it again it stays normal amd if a plug them both it does the same bike bugs down and if i only leave the right and not the left plug bikes is normal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Gues on my bike is the right side because rpms get shitty if i plug the left side hose only if y plug the right side onmy bike runs and sound fine if you put finger on the left hose you can fill the aire coming out and if you put it in the right side you can fill the hose sucking air I will take fairing off tomorrow and check the hoses
 
621 - 635 of 635 Posts
Top