[Jay.2515]

I have to re look at that chart. It may be on the small side.

Looked at a few others and found that the gt28r does very good for around those numbers, only issue is the flange type.

 

[run4cover]

I would stick with something in the smaller garrett t25 family for 200hp ... if you are street riding this bike, you may want to steer clear of the larger turbos, because lag isn't the only issue... when those bigger turbos hit their boost threshold, they tend to spike the hp and torque... smaller turbos spool quicker and have a more linear (controllable) boost curve. You can remedy the boost spike with electronic boost controllers, but that can get overwhelming for a first time turbo project (and expensive)...a simple turbo setup running on gate spring pressure is all you really need for the street... the wastegate cracking early helps to smooth the powerband; which equates to traction in most cases. Everyone focuses on power, but rarely on chassis setup... if you aren't willing to stretch the bike, in my opinion, a turbo is a waste, because you can't use the power it makes. A 200hp turbo bike accelerates much differently than a normally aspirated 200hp bike. For 200hp, I would look at something like a garrett 2510, or something in the td04 mitsubishi/subaru family of turbos. Sizing turbos for a bike isn't like cars...our engines are much more efficient, smaller displacement, and spin much more rpm's... on top of that, most street bike setups are non-intercooled, so you want turbos that are efficient at low boost settings. I run a vf48 on my sc57, and on a built engine with turbo pistons at 10psi it made 250whp...with a bone stock engine on 10psi and E85, it made 278whp...and now on a 13:1 +2mm engine, it makes 240whp on E85 at 6psi... So a simple setup will put you around 200- 220hp on a safe pump gas tune at 6psi on a decent sized turbo.

 

[run4cover]

This is my stock sc57 on pump gas and 6psi with the vf48

 

[Jay.2515]

I would stick with something in the smaller garrett t25 family for 200hp ... if you are street riding this bike, you may want to steer clear of the larger turbos, because lag isn't the only issue... when those bigger turbos hit their boost threshold, they tend to spike the hp and torque... smaller turbos spool quicker and have a more linear (controllable) boost curve. You can remedy the boost spike with electronic boost controllers, but that can get overwhelming for a first time turbo project (and expensive)...a simple turbo setup running on gate spring pressure is all you really need for the street... the wastegate cracking early helps to smooth the powerband; which equates to traction in most cases. Everyone focuses on power, but rarely on chassis setup... if you aren't willing to stretch the bike, in my opinion, a turbo is a waste, because you can't use the power it makes. A 200hp turbo bike accelerates much differently than a normally aspirated 200hp bike. For 200hp, I would look at something like a garrett 2510, or something in the td04 mitsubishi/subaru family of turbos. Sizing turbos for a bike isn't like cars...our engines are much more efficient, smaller displacement, and spin much more rpm's... on top of that, most street bike setups are non-intercooled, so you want turbos that are efficient at low boost settings. I run a vf48 on my sc57, and on a built engine with turbo pistons at 10psi it made 250whp...with a bone stock engine on 10psi and E85, it made 278whp...and now on a 13:1 +2mm engine, it makes 240whp on E85 at 6psi... So a simple setup will put you around 200- 220hp on a safe pump gas tune at 6psi on a decent sized turbo.

That’s what I’m looking for, a simple set up that’s safe for the motor until I get ready to go forged. Thanks for the all the great info! Last winter I went ahead and stretched/lowered the bike because I knew I was wanting to turbo and wanted to be able to apply the power efficiently. I’ll keep everyone updated on the process and if I have any more questions I’ll definitely be reaching out. Thanks again!!!

 

[Jay.2515]

Here’s the bike currently

 

[Jay.2515]

 

[TurboDave]

Who did the swing arm?

 

[Jay.2515]

Who did the swing arm?

I had a buddy of mine weld it up for me. Didn’t wanna go with a extension kit.

 

[TurboDave]

Cool. I did the same with the stock arm and blocks. Let me know if you need a chainguard made so you can pass tech.

 

[Jay.2515]

Cool. I did the same with the stock arm and blocks. Let me know if you need a chainguard made so you can pass tech.
View attachment 266132
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Bad ass bro, I’ll definitely need one of those chain guards in the near future. Been looking for one just like that, how much you charging?

 

[TurboDave]

Looking at about $100. I have drawings for stock length, 6" over, and 12" over. Blank, "CBR" or "TURBO". I have them laser cut, bent, deburred, and then sand the edges. I've been giving them a bare "brushed" look to match stock swingarms but I could do an aluminum polish or paint. Ideal would be powder coat or anodize but I haven't sent them for quote.

Here is some other cool laser cut stuff I've done:

 

[DannoXYZ]

Ok, ran some numbers:

Regardless of boost-level, adiabatic heating of compressed air is fairly linear. Sure, low-boost heats it up less, but still does and results in less air-mass for same boost-level. Also brings you closer to knock/detonation edge and limits how much ignition advance you can run. Summary:

6psi = 211bhp, 6psi+intercooler = 241bhp, +30bhp @ same 6psi!!!
10psi = 235bhp, 10psi+intercooler = 286bhp, +51bhp @ same 10psi boost!!!

On this bike, you'd be better off running 6psi+intercooler for same output as 10psi w/o intercooler. Turbo and bike won't be pushed as hard and close to limit.

Plotted flow-path through giant Cobb 20g turbo. It barely registers on compressor-map and turbo won't be operating in most efficient ranges. This is turbo capable of 480bhp! Running it at only 1/2 that at 10psi will have more lag than necessary. And boost build-up won't be as linear and easy to control, even with EBC to manage it.

 

[DannoXYZ]

I would stick with something in the smaller garrett t25 family for 200hp ... if you are street riding this bike, you may want to steer clear of the larger turbos, because lag isn't the only issue... when those bigger turbos hit their boost threshold, they tend to spike the hp and torque... smaller turbos spool quicker and have a more linear (controllable) boost curve. You can remedy the boost spike with electronic boost controllers, but that can get overwhelming for a first time turbo project (and expensive)...a simple turbo setup running on gate spring pressure is all you really need for the street... the wastegate cracking early helps to smooth the powerband; which equates to traction in most cases. Everyone focuses on power, but rarely on chassis setup... if you aren't willing to stretch the bike, in my opinion, a turbo is a waste, because you can't use the power it makes. A 200hp turbo bike accelerates much differently than a normally aspirated 200hp bike. For 200hp, I would look at something like a garrett 2510, or something in the td04 mitsubishi/subaru family of turbos. Sizing turbos for a bike isn't like cars...our engines are much more efficient, smaller displacement, and spin much more rpm's... on top of that, most street bike setups are non-intercooled, so you want turbos that are efficient at low boost settings. I run a vf48 on my sc57, and on a built engine with turbo pistons at 10psi it made 250whp...with a bone stock engine on 10psi and E85, it made 278whp...and now on a 13:1 +2mm engine, it makes 240whp on E85 at 6psi... So a simple setup will put you around 200- 220hp on a safe pump gas tune at 6psi on a decent sized turbo.

That's good idea!

 

[Jay.2515]

Looking at about $100. I have drawings for stock length, 6" over, and 12" over. Blank, "CBR" or "TURBO". I have them laser cut, bent, deburred, and then sand the edges. I've been giving them a bare "brushed" look to match stock swingarms but I could do an aluminum polish or paint. Ideal would be powder coat or anodize but I haven't sent them for quote.

Here is some other cool laser cut stuff I've done:

View attachment 266144
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View attachment 266146

That is super bad ass! I’d definitely be interested in the rear sets/chain guard for sure. Powder coated black. I’ll let you know when I get ready for it.

 

[Xefactinus9]

Here is a 326 hp stock internals monster that handles like stock in the turns but demands respect. Wheelies in 6th gear. View attachment 266104
View attachment 266105

Beautiful bike man, I bet she's a Beast.

 

[Christopher Fowler]

Who did the swing arm?

I have a 2014 CBR1000RR sp I'm wanting to bike the bike turbo but have no clue where to even start any info would be a big help.

 

[TurboDave]

I have a 2014 CBR1000RR sp I'm wanting to bike the bike turbo but have no clue where to even start any info would be a big help.

I'm not sure if anyone is making a turbo kit for that bike at the moment, but check out the links below.

Kits are not sold separately, only installed.

สล็อตเว็บตรง BIN555 | เว็บสล็อตล่าสุดแตกง่ายเต็มไปด้วยรางวัลใหญ่

BIN555 เป็นเว็บไซต์สล็อตล่าสุดที่กำลังเป็นที่นิยมเพราะให้ชัยชนะกับผู้เล่นได้ง่าย ลงทะเบียนที่ BIN555 และสนุกกับการเล่นสล็อตที่เต็มไปด้วยรางวัลใหญ่

www.efrracing.com

TTS performance in UK has a supercharger kit. $4480

Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade Supercharger Package | TTS Performance

PLEASE NOTE: THERE IS AN APPROXIMATE 28-DAY LEAD TIME WITH THIS PACKAGE The 2008-2016 Fireblade is a cracking bike out of the box, but we wanted even more! Following months of extensive development and testing, our Rotrex supercharger package is now available and takes the 'Blade into superbike...

www.tts-performance.co.uk

 

[DannoXYZ]

There's so much more to getting turbo on bike than just buying pile of parts. That's like first 5%. Definitely finding competent shop that can install and dyno tune is way to do it.

 

[Raptor CBR]

Danno you are mostly right, but bikes are a different beast!

Stock internals, lock up clutch, no intercooler and you're good to 250hp or more with the appropriate setup, fuel and good tune.

IHI-VF22 size turbo makes up to 400 hp, has very low relative intake temperature even at 15 psi (190 deg F intake temp in the summer heat), makes a smooth power curve at low boost 200-225hp. Boost lag is non-existent up to less than 1 second at high boost with proper BOV setup and over 7000rpm.

Don't even bother with an intercooler unless you want 300 hp on pump gas. Just run pump gas at 11.5:1 at 200-250 hp and use race gas over 250hp. Mix half/half pump + c16 for insurance at low boost

You'll need to mount the turbo low and use a scavenge pump to get the oil back to the engine. Ball bearing turbos steal less oil pressure from the motor.

For the street, a turbo cbr1k at 200 hp is very manageable and with the proper size turbo has no negative handling characteristics. Bigger turbos are better and under 6-7k rpm the bike handles like a very happy n/a motor. It feels like you have two bike modes, "N/A" and "God Mode", just rev past the transition zone to wake up the turbo and summon the boost.

Handling gets worse when you stretch the swingarm too far. Swingarm extensions/block are plenty for 200hp. Should you find your self above boost threshold in a turn, your throttle should be feathered and the BOV open to keep the turbo spun up and the power low. Just be ready for launch when you snap the throttle.

Even with a smaller turbo, very smooth power curves can be had with boost controllers with adjustable ramp rates. Once you put a turbo on it'll be hard to keep it at or under 200hp with out boost creep as you'll have to have the beast on a big leash. Best to let it make what it wants at 6-7psi internal wastegate for starters.

You'll need a bigger fuel pump, a boost compensated fuel regulator, a power commander or tuner of some kind able to tune for boost, and a few other mods to the system.

Hit me or run4cover up for more info and dyno charts. I actively have a intercooled turbo plenum design being built and am working on the other parts. That's my old plenum on ebay also. I have it listed in the classifieds here too.

Here is my dyno chart when i used various boost settings...with a massive exhaust leak. The same tune made 326 with the leak fixed.

View attachment 266100

Do you know of anyone with the correct components to put together a good, safe, reliable turbo build of about 250whp+ ?

 

[TurboDave]

Do you know of anyone with the correct components to put together a good, safe, reliable turbo build of about 250whp+ ?

I don't know of anyone making kits for this model year. I've made custom parts for my own bikes, but haven't offered any complete kits for sale yet.

I've got a used Cycle-Logics kit, but I'm looking for a local buyer so I can do the install and tune. If I don't get any interest, it may be up for sale in the classifieds soon and I'll let you know.