Honda CBR 1000RR Forums banner
41 - 45 of 45 Posts
Danno you are mostly right, but bikes are a different beast!

Stock internals, lock up clutch, no intercooler and you're good to 250hp or more with the appropriate setup, fuel and good tune.

IHI-VF22 size turbo makes up to 400 hp, has very low relative intake temperature even at 15 psi (190 deg F intake temp in the summer heat), makes a smooth power curve at low boost 200-225hp. Boost lag is non-existent up to less than 1 second at high boost with proper BOV setup and over 7000rpm.

Don't even bother with an intercooler unless you want 300 hp on pump gas. Just run pump gas at 11.5:1 at 200-250 hp and use race gas over 250hp. Mix half/half pump + c16 for insurance at low boost

You'll need to mount the turbo low and use a scavenge pump to get the oil back to the engine. Ball bearing turbos steal less oil pressure from the motor.

For the street, a turbo cbr1k at 200 hp is very manageable and with the proper size turbo has no negative handling characteristics. Bigger turbos are better and under 6-7k rpm the bike handles like a very happy n/a motor. It feels like you have two bike modes, "N/A" and "God Mode", just rev past the transition zone to wake up the turbo and summon the boost.

Handling gets worse when you stretch the swingarm too far. Swingarm extensions/block are plenty for 200hp. Should you find your self above boost threshold in a turn, your throttle should be feathered and the BOV open to keep the turbo spun up and the power low. Just be ready for launch when you snap the throttle.

Even with a smaller turbo, very smooth power curves can be had with boost controllers with adjustable ramp rates. Once you put a turbo on it'll be hard to keep it at or under 200hp with out boost creep as you'll have to have the beast on a big leash. Best to let it make what it wants at 6-7psi internal wastegate for starters.

You'll need a bigger fuel pump, a boost compensated fuel regulator, a power commander or tuner of some kind able to tune for boost, and a few other mods to the system.

Hit me or run4cover up for more info and dyno charts. I actively have a intercooled turbo plenum design being built and am working on the other parts. That's my old plenum on ebay also. I have it listed in the classifieds here too.

Here is my dyno chart when i used various boost settings...with a massive exhaust leak. The same tune made 326 with the leak fixed.

View attachment 266100
Those numbers are insane on stock internals but do you think you could run stock internals and a turbo on the 08-07 cbr600rr?
 
Hello I’m working on prepping my turbo bike for this spring any insight would be greatly appreciated
Image
 
Well assuming you have a unmodified CycleLogic kit and plenum, You need to get that plastic airbox piece off of the bottom of the plenum. Its a major boost leak waiting to happen. I can make the parts and weld it up if you want. PM me.

I suggest re-tapping throttle bodies to M6 and using stainless socket head cap screws with washers. Those M5 Phillips screws will strip eventually. You can keep the plastic trumpets if you stay low boost.

If you take the plenum off, clean the RTV off with RTV remover and never use RTV again. Buy 1/8" SILICONE FOAM cord for the plenum and throttle body seals. You can get it HERE.

Add a small blow off valve to the charge pipe at the bend near the left side of the cowling.

I am unsure if the Cycle-logic pump used the stock fuel filter, you should modify it to use a replaceable filter if you have fueling issues.

Rebuild that FMU with moly grease and check the rubber gaskets. I never used the cycle-logic FMU, but if its anything like the BEGI is was copied off of, the grease will dry out and it'll stop working.
Image


Image
 
41 - 45 of 45 Posts